To an extent... but it is only the damping you are changing (i.e. how quickly the movement is allowed to happen), so over a long corner like clearways or Gerrards the same amount of movement would still happen. If ride height is really a problem you need to raise the initial ride height (so when it moves you don't get so close) or use the same ride height and stiffen up the spring by using a different spring or adding preload (to reduce the overall movement).

...but I am just using logic, I am no suspension guru. My forks are untouched since I bought it and my shock is set to whatever Nog fitted it as.

Firming the compression damping will reduce the squat effect when under power or on a 'rolling on throttle' through the bend.
That will in turn help to reduce the 'boat effect' and running wide.

Reducing the rebound will enable an easier and quicker return to 'normal' position
but this is fine tuning for your feel, at a particular circuit.

The Linear Spring Rate, Static and Rider Sag plus weight distribution, (read ride height/bike geometrics) have to be in the right ball park as a basis for the 'fine tuning'.

I suppose it depends on what the specific problem is. Is it squat, or general ride height. Also, whilst I see how damping can control initial squat, will it really reduce the total squat? Especially when rolling on the throttle? I don't see how it could... Just logically speaking because it is just adjusting the speed of movement, not total movement.

running wide is the problem and difficulty in turning, just so happens as I thought about it I was running out of clearance a little occasionally

Kinda right Ron.. It does slow the rate of movement by giving more resistance to that movement but also the total movement/travel is lessened for a given down force, because of that resistance.

Therefore, squat is reduced and the effective ride height in that situation is increased.

This keeps more down force over the front and helps with the 'running wide' scenario.

I've got a really good book about bike set up, I'll have to lend it to you Ron

:lol:

That does make sense Alan, thinking about it. Without any damping, if you load it, it will go past the point at which the spring equals the force applied, then keep bouncing over and under that compression until it settles. If you damp (slow) the loading, when the spring equals the force the movement should stop (I.e. No over compression). I suppose the best thing is to try it and see what happens.

I forgot about that. Bring it to Mallory. I dare not read it for fear of wanting to play.

I know it comes across as a bit complex Ron but believe me I have MANY too MANY years of suspension tweaking to know a reasonable bit about it.. The art is applying that to various circuits, to get the best handling.
Not great at that LOL

At the end of the day its not the HP you have, but how much of it you can really use and that is down to 3 things:
1. Mental strength/belief
2. Tyres
3. Handling

At the end of the day its down to rider skill and where your self preservation limiter kicks in!

I won't advise anyone anyway. I go completely against DD set-up convention with my set-up. I have dropped the rear and raised the front on mine since I bought it last year.

Bradders, you can try my rear hoop extenders at Mallory if you want.