@Redruth


What happens if a question cant be answerd ???

[Edited on 1-2-2005 by Bionicle]

If you change suspension setting to compensate for a shorter rider and then drop the forks through the yokes as well you will soon find you are running out of ground clearance. Better to get some foam taken out of the seat.

Of course, and obviously the ground clearance issue would be different depending on the bike.

But also, what would the effect be of the resulting lower centre of gravity?

With regard to the judges my question would be,

How many women does it take to judge a competition?:lol::lol:

Sorry I didn't know most people did that
I naturally assumed everybody did what I do and adjust there own suspension and ride height using their own tools which they then re-employ when adjusting their chain.
You mean to tell me there is another method.

Nice answer from Shazaam on the twin injector 996Bips, the non sequential firing of the injectors is probably the real problem, the 1.6M ecu does not have the capabilities of the P8 ECU as well as somebody nicking the phase sensor off the Bip that you find on the Strada's, SP's and SPS's. May be a ECU that had afeedback from Lambda sensors is not far away, or is it here already as to dat I have only riden a 916 Strada, 748SP and my 916BP so I'm not sure how far things have moved on. My 998Hybrid is nearly ready to ride and although the 5.9m ECU can no doubt process a lot of data very quickly it still relies on a preprogramed map with no feedback.

I'm confused already :puzzled::o

now what's the question :P

The cast iron full floaters tend to rust when damp, this can be after they have been out in the rain, after you have washed it or as they have cooled in the garage and moisture in the air has condensed on them.
This can also effect the surface that mates with the bobbins between the disc and the carrier, which can take most of the float out of the disc. When the bike next goes out it can take a while for the rust in the bobbin area to wear away and allow full movement of the disc. When the disc is restricted in its floating ability it does not push the calliper pistons back in very far after braking, so next time you brake the pistons have a small amount of distance to travel making the lever travel less and giving a stiffer feel to the lever, ater riding for a while the discs will be moving/floating freely and as they rattle from side to side they push the calliper pistons futher back so then when you brake you need to move more fluid by pulling the lever futher, as it takes longer for the pistons to travel to take up the clearance between pad and disc the lever has a softer feel to it.

Sounds plausible to me

Here`s one,If the back of your bike "squats" when accellerating,why,when you do a "burn-out" up against your garage wall (we`ve all done it,so you`re only lying to youself) does the the back of your bike rise?

Load transference

Totaly Agree!!!!!!!!:D

Excellent
After all this biking thing is only a hobby to me

Mav cheque went in the post today

no worries kev!!
Thanks mate.

Think ive still got some bits and pieces left like 1 R/h Dp foot peg and hanger and 1 Dp type rear brake pedal! etc

This can happen with stainless discs to, not just cast iron. I think your bike has the stainless rotors Ruth?
The cast are more prone, because they are ferrous, but the pads can suffer minor corrosion from damp and the scientific bit mentioned beforehand about disimilar metals reacting with each other also effects things.
Once you've freed the pads from the discs, have a look at the discs and you'll see the outline of the pads on the disc faces.
The grinding noise is from the pads rubbing over the now rough disc area where they were stuck. The surface of the pad has been "roughed up" where the corroded part was left on the disc face. As the pads are smoothed off again, and the disc face cleaned through use of the brakes, the noise will disappear.
Not too sure of the "stiff lever"............maybe it's just a feel thing whilst the pads are bedding down again?
I don't think it's sticky pistons though, as they'd be sticky all the while.........
It's not a real problem. The main thing'll be a slightly accelerated pad wear rate. Every time you break the pads free, you're ripping a layer from the pads rather than wearing them in the normal way.
If you wanted to prevent it, when you park it up or wash it, push the pads back in the calipers so they aren't touching the discs................................Just remember to pump the brakes a few time before you ride it again.



Maybe that last bit wasn't so clever :puzzled:

:rodent: "no 5hit Sherlock" :lol:

Steel is actually not a material in it's own right. It's the generic name for a group of ferrous metals principally composed of iron. So the majority content af steel is actually iron, which is, as we know, prone to rusting. In fact, most modern steels contain about 98% iron!

Stainless Steel.
Part of the manufacturing process for the type of steel we know as "stainless" is to introduce corrosion inhibiting elements (usually Chromium) into the process. This creates an alloy with, typically, the following elements:

Carbon: 0.03%
Manganese: 2%
Silicon: 1%
Chromium: 18-20%
Nickel: 8-12%
The rest is Iron.

So you see, whilst stainless steel is manufactured with corrosion inhibiting properties, it cannot be claimed to actually prevent corrosion altogether because this would depend upon the ammount of Chromium and the accuracy of the process. And nothing is perfect.

So this is why, as Nelly says, it can happen to steel discs too!

:frog:

I think it is a combination of corrosion & cold brake fluid the later makes the leaver feel woody & the pistons not return properly.
Chass.

Ruth, all these posts are bollox.

You're bike is simply upset that you put it to bed wet so it gets cold. Dry it off, get a garage heater and make sure it feels loved and this will never happen again.

Dr TP

Adjusting the chain on a 998 etc will indeed alter the ride height, however a 999 doesnt have this built in problem!! :P

Q. Blip throttle on down change
 

Q1. Why is this benificial

Q2. is it A. clutch in Blip, gear down, clutch out; or B. clutch in, gear, blip, clutch out.

bill, blipping the throttle takes the load off the gearbox when downchanging, you should feel the benifit when its timed right (it even suggests this in the owners manual of the 916!!)
the correct sequence is clutch in Blip, gear down, clutch out:)

(do i win £5?)

[Edited on 2-2-2005 by gasmanrus]

I may be wrong but I think the reason for blipping the throttle on a downshift is to match the engine revs to the gearbox which will be higher (as you have just downshifted) So I think the correct sequence is clutch in , gear down, blip, clutch out

An expert should be along..

sheep, your right saying the engine speed needs to match the gearbox speed but as for the sequence

i think you may be wrong too:devil:

Keep throttle pinned, give the quickshifter a nudge, Roberts your mothers brother.

Now, where's a quickshifter catalog ...

:frog:

This is typical of women, to get men into a big ol ****in contest.... I of course know everything about everything but will not be drawn into this male bun fight :burn:

Not sure it really makes that much difference, as it's all happening fairly quickly. As long as the clutch is in when you downshift and the revs match when the clutch is let out then the bike should be happy.

it's clutch in! blip ! down shift ! clutch out !

the reason we did it, was if you have ever driven an old HGV with a "crash " gear box , The blip of the throttle. A. brings up engine speed with the gear box speed Thus negating the shift!
road speed can alter this so if you get it all syncronized you can actualy down shift without using the clutch!!!!

Remind me not to buy any bikes (with quickshifters) from you :P

:lol:

You know what I mean. Kick the gear lever when you've got a quickshifter installed etc ...

on a downshift tony? Are you sure about that me old aussie fruit?

For those HGV boxes I agree with you.

In my experience of driving one of the Oz Army's old Mack wrecker trucks you had to whack the clutch in (yes I do mean whack) take it out of gear, let the clutch out, rev the anus off it, clutch in put in gear and clutch out again ....

Otherwise you just couldn't get the bugger in gear!

With bike's though I think Rob's (sheepylover) point is valid, it happens so quickly once you've got the clutch in (rev and downshift) that it doesn't really matter. Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though ..

it's clutch in! blip ! down shift ! clutch out !

the reason we did it, was if you have ever driven an old HGV with a "crash " gear box , The blip of the throttle. A. brings up engine speed with the gear box speed Thus negating the shift!
road speed can alter this so if you get it all syncronized you can actualy down shift without using the clutch!!!!

What are you changing down for? I want go faster, not slower!!

Tp that was known as "Double De Clutch" still used today on some big trucks!

but most are no syncro boxes;)

not sure what the proper reason for it is, but i do it to stop the back wheel working too hard against the engine. It can be good fun when you're playing about on the track getting the back to drift sideways into a corner but when I'm hard on the brakes in a straight line i'd rather not encourage the tyre to loose tractiona and waggle about!

Very tricky going down the box without the clutch... something i don't care to get to grips with, it just seems a bit abbusive!

save me a spot in the gravel trap matey!! :lol:

I drove that old Mack truck around on exercise for about two weeks, I had a left leg like the Governor of California after that!

I was planning on using you as the brake/block pass object mate.

Nothing personal you understand ... :devil:

[Edited on 2-2-2005 by tp-996]

A quickshifter aint realy rocket science!

it just cuts the ignition milli second and unloads drive thus negating the gear !

set up is very important thou as not to blow gear box to bits :D:D

When I go Clutch in, Blip, gear down, its so smooth but "Twist of the Wrist" says the bit about engine speed and recomends Clutch in, gear down, blip, clutch out......when I do this it no so smooth.

Thanks Bill O !!!
I rest my case :smug: