Ant
The bolt that the pedal pivots on can grab the pedal if its too tight.
Also squashes the o-rings a bit and they can grab.
Remove it all, clean it up, blob of threadset in the threaded engine casing, grease the spring etc then offer it back up and tighten the bolt until it starts to grip the pedal then back it off a bit, works for me.
:eureka:

Cheers mate, having you describe that reminds me that I have actually done it!

I found that one of the o-rings on the pivot was the wrong size (too big) and was squashing when tightened, hence the gripping of the lever.

Having checked the spares manual, the o-rings should be the same size on both sides (same part number) so I replace the larger one with the right size o-ring from a pack I'd bought in B&Q for 99p to fix something else - probably a leaky tap or something.

Anyway, job done. Doesn't mean I use the back brake though :D

I'm an avid rear brake fan, got mile r caliper, wavy disk and a nicely greased pivot shaft, oo err. Really and utterly great for shrugging off that last bit off excess speed or tightening the line going into corners. Somedays I like to get it tapped out in fifth and hit the brake and drift it sideways as far as I can. The best fun is then dropping the clutch in third and spinning up the rear to power out the corner with a huge rooster tail. Hey wait a minute, thats the motorcrosser.....
I still think it settles the rear on the road bike and was put there for a reason, if they would fit I'd have two..:D

First I will admit that I don't know the answer here. This is what I have heard at different track schools

From CSS yesterday Andy Ibbott does not recomend trail braking for road or trackday unless you are already at a very high level of ability. Basically he was saying trailbraking is for racing only..

At the CSS schools they teach that anything that puts more weight on the front after turning in is bad. That would include front brake, rear brake or cutting the throttle.

I was at the ESS school where Mick Doohan was interviewed by MCN. Mick was saying that by applying the rear after the front it would settle the bike and slow the bike quicker.

He also said that Rossi and others have rubber bands around the rear brake to stop them from overusing the rear and locking the rear. This was not related to baking the bike in.

Mick Doohan (and some other racers) had thumb brakes for the rear so that they can stay on the ball of the foot and still use the rear.

That's interesting!

Does the Mille caliper fit on the stock bracket?
Main problem I have with the back brake, like most folks I think, is that it doesn't stay air-free for five minutes. Bleed it., and the pedal's firm for a while, but in no time it's hitting the fairing panel again. :(
I'm getting one of those Mityvac bleeders to try to get to grips with this problem.

Don't bother with a MityVac just yet ( as they're a bit pricey)

Try these http://www.speedbleeder.com They're dead cheap, and I'm their newest fan.

I've fitted one to my rear caliper, bled the thing through to no bubbles in a couple of minutes and can now lock the rear up at town speeds.

The pedal is now very firm too.

Jason

Caliper should fit straight on. I had a problem with what appeared to be mine flexing and a mate had a spare. It look to be just a slighlty newer design but does use different pads. Not sure it is any better just different.