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-   -   Are ohlins worth it????? (/showthread.php?t=29933)

Gaz 748 11-Nov-2006 20:58

:eek: :eek: :eek: Almost cheaper to buy a new shock.

doogalman 11-Nov-2006 21:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz 748
:eek: :eek: :eek: Almost cheaper to buy a new shock.

I know. but once it's apart and they are working on it you're in it. Even Steve didn't know that parts had been superceded and discontinued.
Still it's back now, so get it on and have a play.

TP 11-Nov-2006 21:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by doogalman
I know. but once it's apart and they are working on it you're in it. Even Steve didn't know that parts had been superceded and discontinued.
Still it's back now, so get it on and have a play.


It pretty much sounds like you've bought a new one anyway! With the amount of parts you've bought .. Steve's a good guy, I'd be happy with his word.

What a bugger, but there you go ... should be good once you get it on though :)

weeveetwin 11-Nov-2006 22:44

Hi guys

As a matter of interest, here's a copy of an e-mail I've just received from Maxton after having them quote me for a suspension rebuild on my 888SP. It's got Ohlins front and rear. All-in, it's going to cost me around £500.


DUCATI 888 SP4

FRONT:

"The forks are Ohlins , and they give a very hard ride. The damping and springing are too hard and need to be modified. We do a fork conversion that revalves the compression damping and rebound damping (we reduce the compression damping and increase the rebound damping) We also use a different fork spring, the final choice is made when we know what the bike is used for (road or race) and the riders weight. Cost £250 plus VAT, and carriage. The seals generally are very prone to leaking, and because we can only use original Ohlins seals (there is no cheap replacement ) the cost of a new pair of seals is £46 plus VAT".


REAR:

"The rear is an Ohlins. It is very similar to the front in that the springing and compression damping is too hard. Just changing the spring hardly makes a difference, particularly at speed. We revalve the compression inside the unit and use a softer spring, the final choice of spring is dependent on the use of the bike and the riders weight. The cost of revalving the unit and changing the spring is £130 plus VAT and carriage.

We make a replacement shock a Maxton high pressure gas shock costing £405 plus VAT or £490 plus VAT with a remote".

sharpo 12-Nov-2006 00:55

absolutely yes definately not and everything inbetween, as usual.

rcgbob44 12-Nov-2006 04:23

Someone once told me that the only real difference you could tell between Ohlins and a well set up showa suspension system was when you were on the limit on a track!

yorkshire pud 19-Nov-2006 13:04

well thanks guys .i was bidding for a shock off fleabay. ohlins. after reading posts i wont buy a used one now.ill get mine rebuilt. or buy new.

Ray 20-Nov-2006 09:34

The rear Ohlins on my bike (R model) had piston rod damage, I thought about buying one off e-bay but got mine repaired/serviced, a bit less money than one off fleabay as it turned out and now I know I have a rear shock that is in tip top nick, not one of unknown origin, age, condition off Fleabay.

Ohlins worth it, IMHO on the road the ride is so much plusher, less stiction compared to the non nitrided showas, on the front of a 996 BIP and showa rear. But Compared to nitirded showa forks I couldn't tell the difference on the road. Didn't get the chance to fiddle with the 998s set up ( nitrided showas) as it wasn't my bike.

I can feel the difference with small changes on the ohlins set as well, unlike on the 996 BIP.

Ray.

Ains. 20-Nov-2006 10:14

S'funny that, owned my T8SP4S since 1997 and neither front fork (FG9050)has leaked, ever. Only stripped, checked and seals replaced after Oct 05 front end smash when the front wheel was pushed against the rad'. Forks not bent, frame was. Hard ride on the front due to track springing, but a lot can be dialed out.
The rear shock is spot on, only change was a 10% reduction in spring rate and softening up the comp and rebound.
I can't knock 'em. I do make a point of carefully removing the crapola that
gets under the dust seals though, as that balls up and causes inner seal failure.

Ains.


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