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Bionicle 01-Feb-2005 22:56

@Redruth


What happens if a question cant be answerd ???

[Edited on 1-2-2005 by Bionicle]

rockhopper 01-Feb-2005 23:21

If you change suspension setting to compensate for a shorter rider and then drop the forks through the yokes as well you will soon find you are running out of ground clearance. Better to get some foam taken out of the seat.

NBs996 01-Feb-2005 23:26

Of course, and obviously the ground clearance issue would be different depending on the bike.

But also, what would the effect be of the resulting lower centre of gravity?

andyb 01-Feb-2005 23:28

With regard to the judges my question would be,

How many women does it take to judge a competition?:lol::lol:

skidlids 02-Feb-2005 00:11

Quote:

Originally posted by madmav
why is most people take their bike in to have suspension/ride height ajustment sorted, only to then re-tension their chain a week later and throw the whole settings out again


Sorry I didn't know most people did that
I naturally assumed everybody did what I do and adjust there own suspension and ride height using their own tools which they then re-employ when adjusting their chain.
You mean to tell me there is another method.

Nice answer from Shazaam on the twin injector 996Bips, the non sequential firing of the injectors is probably the real problem, the 1.6M ecu does not have the capabilities of the P8 ECU as well as somebody nicking the phase sensor off the Bip that you find on the Strada's, SP's and SPS's. May be a ECU that had afeedback from Lambda sensors is not far away, or is it here already as to dat I have only riden a 916 Strada, 748SP and my 916BP so I'm not sure how far things have moved on. My 998Hybrid is nearly ready to ride and although the 5.9m ECU can no doubt process a lot of data very quickly it still relies on a preprogramed map with no feedback.

nelly 02-Feb-2005 00:25

I'm confused already :puzzled::o

now what's the question :P

skidlids 02-Feb-2005 00:25

Quote:

Originally posted by Redruth
1. Ride the bike on a cold winter's day.
2. Hose it off and put it in the garage
3. Next time I come to move it, I can't budge it.
4. Try to bump it up and down a bit and it and eventually manage to move it forward but it makes a horrible grinding noise.
5. Brake lever seems much stiffer for the first few miles but then eases up.
6. Is it safe to keep riding it when this happens?


The cast iron full floaters tend to rust when damp, this can be after they have been out in the rain, after you have washed it or as they have cooled in the garage and moisture in the air has condensed on them.
This can also effect the surface that mates with the bobbins between the disc and the carrier, which can take most of the float out of the disc. When the bike next goes out it can take a while for the rust in the bobbin area to wear away and allow full movement of the disc. When the disc is restricted in its floating ability it does not push the calliper pistons back in very far after braking, so next time you brake the pistons have a small amount of distance to travel making the lever travel less and giving a stiffer feel to the lever, ater riding for a while the discs will be moving/floating freely and as they rattle from side to side they push the calliper pistons futher back so then when you brake you need to move more fluid by pulling the lever futher, as it takes longer for the pistons to travel to take up the clearance between pad and disc the lever has a softer feel to it.

Sounds plausible to me

sparkin 02-Feb-2005 00:26

Here`s one,If the back of your bike "squats" when accellerating,why,when you do a "burn-out" up against your garage wall (we`ve all done it,so you`re only lying to youself) does the the back of your bike rise?

skidlids 02-Feb-2005 00:31

Load transference

madmav 02-Feb-2005 00:33

Quote:

Originally posted by skidlids
Quote:

Originally posted by Redruth
1. Ride the bike on a cold winter's day.
2. Hose it off and put it in the garage
3. Next time I come to move it, I can't budge it.
4. Try to bump it up and down a bit and it and eventually manage to move it forward but it makes a horrible grinding noise.
5. Brake lever seems much stiffer for the first few miles but then eases up.
6. Is it safe to keep riding it when this happens?


The cast iron full floaters tend to rust when damp, this can be after they have been out in the rain, after you have washed it or as they have cooled in the garage and moisture in the air has condensed on them.
This can also effect the surface that mates with the bobbins between the disc and the carrier, which can take most of the float out of the disc. When the bike next goes out it can take a while for the rust in the bobbin area to wear away and allow full movement of the disc. When the disc is restricted in its floating ability it does not push the calliper pistons back in very far after braking, so next time you brake the pistons have a small amount of distance to travel making the lever travel less and giving a stiffer feel to the lever, ater riding for a while the discs will be moving/floating freely and as they rattle from side to side they push the calliper pistons futher back so then when you brake you need to move more fluid by pulling the lever futher, as it takes longer for the pistons to travel to take up the clearance between pad and disc the lever has a softer feel to it.

Sounds plausible to me


Totaly Agree!!!!!!!!:D


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