Rear Wheel Removal
 

I bought a Carbon hugger today for my new toy. And am pretty certain that i need to remove the rear wheel to fit it.

What size nut is that on the wheel. Bloody massive, I have nothing anywhere near big enough. Any ideas on where I can get one?

Cheers

Mark

46m socket, look in for sale harry s has some for sale, or go to a local tool shop.

Lloydy,

Andy B is right , 46mm, and spookily is the same size as the ball joint nut on an old mini, so most decent motor factors will have them (i.e. not Halfords).

Without trying to teach my grandmother to suck egss and all that, also worth cable tying the circlip when you reassemble, as these rear wheelnuts have been known to work loose !

Thanks very much for you advice people.

Hey, dont worry about teaching me to suck eggs!! I need all the help I can get! Only had the Duc for 4 days!! :D

I did try Halfords.. But like you said......:mad:

I have ordered mine via Halford.

You need 46mm for the wheel side and 41mm for the sprocket side.

Halford can get them with 2 or 3 days turn around. They order them from TENG TOOLS and they are about £16 each in satin finish (chrome is much more expensive, about £25).

Those come with a 3/4 inch drive though and you will need an adaptor (available from Halford too) from 1/2 inch to 3/4 (about £8) since I suppose your spanner will be 1/2 drive.

Also you will need a heavy duty Torque Wrench to operate that. I got a cheap one from ScrewFix.com (about a tenner). Not worth splashing a lot on such a wrench since this is pretty much the only time you are going to use it.
Better to spend the money on an acurate 3/8inch drive one.

Also I have bought a handy little Jump Start system from screwfix. Really cool to bring on track days. You charge it up at home and it provides power to jump start the bike (sometimes a problem on Dukes lets face it), light, and even a small tyre inflator! (about £50).

Cheers
Philippe

Its such a long time ago that I fitted my DP hugger, but I can definatly say that I didn't remove the wheel, all I needed to do was remove the caliper so that I could thread the brake hose. :lol:

Gannet.

PS I didn't bother to drill and tap the swingarm :o

hugger
 

thats a good point...what make is the hugger? Do you really need to remove the wheel. I know when I first got my BIP, I swore blind I would have to remove the wheel to get the old hugger off...but alas no...just a bit of jiggery pokery and out it came?!?!

A mate of mine has a tool business and will give discount if you mention DSC. Worth an email if only to check prices. ;)

Once again, many thanks to everyone for your replies.

I phoned my Dad last night and his next door neighbour had one, so I went and got it, took the wheel off and then put on the hugger. All sorted.

I have ordered a 46mm socket and that should be here tomorrow, I will have to buy an adaptor or something similar as my spanners etc are all 1/2inch.

Cheers

Mark

:roll: I would suggest you remove the rear wheen just to make life easy and i would also suggest you screw and tap the arm to do the job properly, its very easy. Good Luck

popped into Halfords after work for the 46 and 41mm sockets myself. Oh no we will have to order them for you, - prices £56 and £46 !!!!!!!!!!! Are you sure ? No sir, there may be alternatives but it is too close to closingtime you will have to come back tomorrow. Maybe I won't bother.

Got some imperial (46mm) eqivalent sockets , turned down to suit the narrow wheel nut !
Half inch drive !!
£15 delivered

[Edited on 4-6-2003 by Totto]

Hugger
 

I picked up a 3/4 inch drive socket from the Ally Pally Show for £5.00 and a 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor for £4.00 and there ok, I would suggest that if you want to do the job properly then you remove the wheel, tap the swinging arm and do not forget to torque the wheel nut correctly, All torque settings can be found on the Ducati.Com site. Good Luck:sing:

torque settings
 

i gave up with the do it myself job, - and took the bike into a tyre fitters this morning, - my Ducati dealers were booked in with other stuff for weeks. The tyre place was Watling tyres in South Croydon and credit to the guy who did it,- he was very careful with my wheel.

But on putting the wheel back he said that they never torque set the wheels, - the drill they use does them up tight enough, - but how did he know how tight it was? I did n't make a fuss (how English) as to be fair the guy was doing a very careful job, and i was being a pain watching his every move.

But, does anybody else know how tight these guns do up? I guess i know that i should take it back to the Ducati dealer and get it checked but I now feel a bit guilty as i went elsewhere (if you know what I mean).

The imperial one I got from Halfords is 1" and 13/16, and it's black, like an impact socket :)

Rear Wheel Torque Settings
 

I hope this helps:
Rear wheel nut should be torqued to 176 Nm, this equates to 129.8 ft lb`s. I have attached the ducati tech spec sheets detailing this, if you need to convert the other settings you can get the conversion bits from the web. Good luck

thanks, - i took it to P&H yesterday afternoon, - and they undid it, checked it, torqued it, and charged me nothing. Thanks P&H. - My mate bought a new ZX7R, - a good looking bike with some real racing history, - for a rice burner.

Rear Wheel Removal

You'll need a six-point 46 mm (1-13/16-inch) socket and a torque wrench with a handle extension. Most sockets this size are 3/4-inch drives so you also may need a 3/4-to-1/2-inch drive adapter.

Check your socket construction. You may need to machine down the hex end of the socket if it has recessed flats. Otherwise, you'll only get partial engagement of the socket flats on the comparatively thin nut. There's high torque involved here so you'll want to anticipate slipping and damaging the nut.

The rear wheel is held on with a 46 mm nut cross-drilled to accept a safety retaining clip that is installed as a safety precaution to prevent the loss of the nut. If the nut was not torqued correctly when last installed, the nut may have loosened a bit and captured the pin. This will prevent the socket from being placed over the nut, so you may have to cut off or pry the pin out.

You can expect that the rear wheel retaining nut will be VERY difficult to remove, usually requiring the use of an impact driver (or a long handle extension) to get it off. Over time it seems to get tighter.

The best way to keep the wheel from turning while removing the nut is to have a helper apply the rear brake lever with a normal amount of force. Be careful, too much force on the lever can break the rear master cylinder bracket which is the pivot point for the rear brake pedal.


Rear Wheel Installation

A Ducati tech bulletin and their web site specifies 176 Nm ± 5% torque requirement for the rear wheel retaining nut (normal thread direction). This converts to 124-137 lb-ft.

Applying an anti-seize lube to the threads will help to assure an accurate torque reading and make it easier to get the nut off later. The manual calls for Shell Retinax HDX2, an automotive grease.

When reinstalling, first make sure that the wheel is seated properly. Mount the wheel and tighten the nut to about 50 lb-ft. Then rotate the wheel and pound the side of the tire with the heel of your hand in several places around the circumference to seat it. Then tighten to about 80 lb-ft and repeat, applying the rear brake lever to keep the wheel from turning. Finally, tighten the nut to 124 lb-ft and check the retaining pin hole alignment. Torque again as high as 137 lb-ft to line-up the holes and insert the retaining pin.

If the nut is under-torqued it will allow the nut to loosen, allowing the wheel to rotate in its mount and be damaged by repeated acceleration/braking impact loads that will ovalize the four locating pins holes on the backside of the wheel. Damage to the axle spindle can also occur. Also a loose nut will back-off till it's stopped by the retaining pin, then bend the pin and deform the nut. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.

During installation, you should never loosen the nut to insert the pin. The range of correct torque values for the nut is 124-137 lb-ft so the correct procedure is to torque to the lower value, check for hole alignment and torque up to the higher value if necessary to align the holes.

Note that if you are installing aftermarket wheels, a small variation in wheel/paint thickness may make it more difficult to apply both the correct torque and also get the correct hole alignment.