problem - bigger sprocket??
 

just spent most of the afternoon trying to change to a quick-change carrier. Got 39t sprocket, changed from 36t std. Probelm is, now the hugger fouls the wheel - didnt do it earlier as I had it mot'd at lunchtime!

This is what I have done (followed haynes manual):
remove carrier
remove cush drives
remove hub
remove sprocket
replace hub in new carrier
replace cush drives in new carrier
put on 39t sprkt

As far as I know, it went backlon the same as it came off.

On putting the chain on, the hub got 'reversed' so clockwise was tightening, took the sproket off, as the chain would not go far enough to reverse back (???) and reversed to the normal direction, ie c/wise slacken, put sprkt back on

no matter what I have done, back, forward, tight, slack, reversed, right way, the hugger fouls the wheel.

Questions:

Is is simply the chain is too short?
Is there any way in which I can put the hub back incorrectly?
Am I missing something simnple?

Thanks for your helps:(

Put an extra link in as you've pulled it nearer by increasing the diameter of sprocket.. I thinks:D

can I get just an extra link - anyone have one? The chain is in resonable condition and I would like to just bin it.

You have got the centric adjuster in the lower position ??????



But it does look more like your chain aint long enough :sniff:

Best bet is new front sprocket & chain, that is if you intend on leaving it with the 39th on the back, have attached a guide for you re chain length( kindley donated by Shazam in an earlier post)


Chris:burn:

I guess a longer chain would be the answer, but to start with have you got the eccentric of the hub in the right location.ie the centre of the wheel where you put your stand should be lower than the centre line of the swingarm, ideally around 5 o clock as you look from the stand side.

[Edited on 5-3-2005 by andyb]

Indeed, fitting the larger sprocket at the back has shortened your wheelbase if you are still using the same length chain.

Best off getting a couple of additional links put in...or if you are going to keep it like this for a while, perhaps a new one chain altogether. (tsubaki HD gold X-ring = £65-70 approx).

You really should be aiming to get the hub as far back as possible in the hub rotation...it makes a huge difference to the stability of the bike.

Once you've done that, and the chain is the correct tension, adjust the ride height back to suit. Sounds to me like you need a ride height tool:D

Shazzams table above holds the key...looks like 96 links are needed if its a 14 or 15 tooth front combined with your 39 rear. This looks as though is will give a good long wheel base at either +4 or + 8mm.

[Edited on 5-3-2005 by Harv748]

so if I go for a longer chain, what if I want to put a 36t back on? After all, I have bought the q/change carrier so I can swap em over

andyb - thanks for the reply mate but didnt understand a word!!

as far as I can tell, the hub is now correct, ie clockwise movement makes the chain loose.

Looks like a new chain...or buy 36t srpkt! Know which is cheaper for me at the mo...:(

Anyone know AJ Racing tel no - thats where I got it (I think!)

Thanks again, and if anyone fancies coming round and fixing it, my pride wont be hurt!LOL

well there is only so much adjustment in the hub for all of the various sprocket combinations.

If you did compromise on the chain length (ie going for something that will cover a number of sprocket changes) then it will be at the cost of the wheel base length and therefore bike stability.

Guess you have to decide whats important to you, but personally I would want my bike to handle as best as possible ALL of the time, irrespective of the sprocket combination I was running.

Alans No is 01453 845 544

[Edited on 5-3-2005 by Harv748]

cheers Harv, I'll call him Monday.

Know what you mean about the handling, specially after what I have just spent having all sussies rebuilt! But tbh havent a clue about these things, guess its another trip to see a 'specialist' and more dosh....does it ever end?!!

maybe I should chop it in for a gixxer thou.....

Imagine a 10p piece as a clock face ok, 12 at the top and 6 at the bottom etc, with me so far.. Now put a 5p piece on top. You could place it right in the centre or at the edge anywhere around the clock face, still with me?
Now, standing at the nearside of the bike, imagine the hub thats inside the swing arm where you undo the two bolts to alter the chain is the 10p piece, and if you look at the hole through the centre where you fit the spindle of your single sided stand to be the 5p piece, you want the hole to sit at around 5 o clock for the best fit, with your chain at the right tension.
This would also have the effect of moving your wheel away from your hugger!! increase your straight line stability etc etc.............

so...the hole is further back than the centre of the hub...

Yes, and it will appear a bit lower as the hub is eccentric, thats how it adjusts the chain, and why if you get it wrong working above the centre, ie from 9o clock to 3 o clock clockwise, it makes your wheel too close to your hugger. Here endeth the first lesson.

cool, I think I understand

can I put it together wrong? eg hub upside down or something? Or will it only fit one way..

Changing your sprocket carrier wont of been wrong...you either got it to fit or not. What you might be doing is working in the wrong area of the eccentric hub.

What you could of done is mark the outer serated shape of the hub, the bit where you fit your chain adjusting spanner, with a white mark tippex or paint, at the point where the "5p piece is nearest the edge of the 10p piece"
That way you would know instantly which way to turn the hub, given wnough play in the chain!

If you can afford it, buy a new chain (like a gold erv2) that is slightly longer. In fact they are generally supplied longer. Keep your original chain for when you sell the bike.

cheers, really points at the chain. its just too short....

Yes, aswell as you positioning the hub above the centre line as apposed to where it should be below.

so, just to confirm, the way to move the hub is using the tool which tightens/loosens the chain...and thats it?

Yep, that's it.

Want to borrow my chain breaker / rivetter?

I've only got 520 links though, and you'll need 525.

Cheers S, will get a 36t sprkt first and try that, make sure its not something I have done, also far cheaper than new chain!

If you really wanted to be trick, you could of fitted 520 front sprocket to go with a new 520 rear and a new 520 chain,:o

Oh sorry if you know, but this is the width of the chain. yours is 525, wider.

rear is 525 - that I do know. (it has a sticker on it!)

didnt know what it meant tho:o

If you can be doing with undoing the carrier nut again and removing the carrier youll see what ive been saying about 5p 10p etc, If you can then get it in the right position you may not need to buy anything else! And youll be able to mark the sweet spot!

If you are willing to ride it up here tomorrow without the hugger on I'll take a look for you?

[Edited on 5-3-2005 by Harv748]

thanks Harv, but the hugger and chain guard are as one, which means the brake line flops about with it off...and I dont have a guard to replace it.

Paul what make rear sprocket carrier have you got, I have a few sprockets around that I use for changing the gearing when racing, I could see what I have got, most are a 520 pitch but some are 525. I will look in the moring and if I have a 36 or 37 you could borrow it while you see about sorting the chain. I have chain splitters and riviters as well and I usually get my soft links from what was M&Ps next door to Fox's diner. If I have a sprocket it may be worth you coming up on the monster or in the car tomorrow.

Kev

talon I think - but belive renthal fit as well?? ba749 (AJ racing I think) have one for sale on ebay now...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=WDVW

Mine are all different to that one Paul, I have Renthal and AFAM sprockets to fit my Renthal carrier and the other one is Valtermoto and they all have a diffent pattern to that one on Ebay, all mine are less square shaped around the cush drive area. :(

They're Talon. It's what I've got fitted as well

not got a 36 or 37t one have yer??

Another way to make sure you got the eccentric in the right area is to see which way you have to turn the adjustment spanner to tighten the chain. Quite simply, if you have to pull up on the spanner to tighten the chain, the eccentric is in the right area, i.e. below the hub.

This is where it should be.

greta pic - so should it be at 5 oc as andy says or 9 as the pic shows?

It should be in the 4 to 5 area in the pic, probably why that section is shaded.

[Edited on 6-3-2005 by skidlids]

Or as Geoff Baines said to me when I first got my 916 " make sure it is between 6 O'clock and 9 O'clock when viewed from the wheel side.