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Headlamp bulbs I know that this subject has been done to death, but amidst all of the excellent blurb I am struggling to get some simple answers... We are off to Nurbergring week after next and I would like some lamps that are a bit brighter than the standard Ducati ones. I have read about Philips and Osram etc., but wonder: - a) What are the best for all round riding and b) What can I fit that fits straight in and doesn't require any changes to the wiring/holders etc Sorry to raise what appears to be a well discussed topic, but would really appreciate a answers that a simpleton (i.e. me) can understand. Thanks |
Don't go for anything with a higher wattage rating as it will fry your electrics! There is no build in margin to run anything but a 55W headlight through the reg/rec. I run blue tinted bulbs as they appear to cast a whiter light and the blue sheen gets you noticed more as it's an unnatural colour. If you're lacking in the "lighting up the road" stakes, it might be worth fiddling with the headlight adjuster to make sure it's setup right. |
I've got lamp made by PIAA in mine. I've had not problems with them. They produce a brighter light, but for the same power as the standard lamps. Regards, G |
Phillips! 50% brighter main & 30% brighter "Bluevision" dip. Plug straight in! ;) |
Phillips Xenon jobies here |
Thanks everyone, Quote:
Now for some really thick questions: - As the dip and main are separate, are they single filament bulbs or standard twin? Also, the bulbs above sound like what I need, so are they both the same and are they called Bluevision? (I did say I was thick...:puzzled::puzzled: ) |
They are seperate bulbs - dipped is on the left and full beam on the right as you sit on the bike. I *think* that one is an H1 bulb and the other an H4 bulb, but please check with the manual before you go and buy them as I might be wrong. Getting at the bulbs is a royal pain in the arse as the leads are usually tucked away behind the headlight bucket (the metal casing) making changing them on the bike almost impossible. I usually take the top fairing off (4x dzus, 2x allen and the mirrors) and then take the headlight unit out (undo the adjuster bolt and then slide it out) to do it as it makes it much easier. This might be a good time to buy a Haynes manual.... :D |
Cool, thanks A. Now off to find some bulbs...(and a manual) :burn: |
Should be able to get both at Halfords to be honest. They usually have a good range of Haynes manuals. |
Cheers |
H1 and H3...not H4 - that's a twin filament one. |
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Yes and neither Philips nor Osram do the H3 in the 50% brighter versions :( At least I've never been able to find them. |
Thanks for the info. If the main beam is twin filament, doesn't it mean that one of the filaments won't illuminate? I don't know whether a twin filament bulb needs both filaments powered to give main beam (i.e. the two together provide the necessary lighting power), but if it doesn't, as long as the main beam filament is powered then won't it be ok? Knew this wasn't as easy as I first thought!:barfy: Any suggestions for the H3 bulb then?:puzzled: (Also, which one is the H3, dip or main?) [Edited on 11-5-2005 by L3OONY] |
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Eh??? No, the H4 ( which does not fit ) is a twin filament bulb. Both H1 & H3 are single filament... Dip is H3 and main is H1. |
I just knew that I would end up confusing others too... Thanks for the info. If I want to improve the dip, and neither Osram or Philips make the nice bright bulbs, are there any alternative ones that have been found to be OK? |
I use the Halfords own brand...50% brighter H1 and 30% H3 Worth it! |
Me too. Well, I've never changed a main beam bulb, but have used the "*x*% brighter" dip bulbs from Halfords and they don't seem too bad to me. You have to take the nose-cone off (on my bike anyway, not sure it's necessary on earlier models), but it's no big deal once you done it once or twice. Make sure you note how many turns on the headlight unit adjuster screw when you take it out. |
Then I shall take your advice and bother you no more! Thanks for your help and advice! ;) |
50% brighter main 30% brighter dip and no, you don't have to remove the cowling, just pop off the rubber covers on the back of each housing and the bulbs unclip. Watch out for the little connector on the dip bulb, it can be a sod if the wires a bit short from the loom ;) |
The picture in the Haynes manual shows a dip bulb with the connector on the back of the bulb, as normal. If that 's what you've got, then no need to remove the nose-cone. But mine has the type of bulb with a "fly-lead" attached. This disappears into the headlight unit, and you have to take the nose-cone off t get at it to disconnect it. It should be pretty self-evident which type you have. |
Moto...there's one of each. The dip beam is a H3 - this is as you say a bulb with a connector spade on a short length of cable. The Haynes manuhelll is wrong if it shows a H1 ( bulb with spade directly on rear ) as a dip beam. You should be able to remove the rubber boot over the back of the H3 to remove the bulb...no need to take off the nose cone.. |
The wire connector from the H3 bulb can be a bit difficult to reconnect cos the loom connector does have a tendency to jump behind the headlight fitting if you let it go. Be gentle but keep hold of it and it's a cinch to replace without removing the cowling! Or is that what the actress said to the bishop :o |
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Just checked my bulbs & they are Halfords Xenon ! |
As I've said before PIAA do a brighter lamp (bulb) for the diped beam. Regards, G |
My sister's bicycle has a better lamp than my duke. I'd consider a candle latern as an upgrade, but would fret about stickly mot testers: "Those cans sound very loud. Your main beam flickers all over the place, and your fork seals are weeping oil." "That's not oil, it's wax from my dipped beam." |
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