Termi can/ filters fitting
 

I'll be fitting them tomorrow. Anything special I need to know before I start out?

The hook off a coat hanger!

Record everything you do with digital camera!Wish i had.:rolleye:

A bit more info required please :puzzled:

let me get this right your changing the cans and putting in some filters yea

take sub frame off it makes it easier to remove old can, get new can into position then replace sub frame so you can check it goes in right place, leave everything loose and tighten fgrom rear forward. if its a 57mm full system 2:1:2 make sure you have plenty of valium to hand

The can, no worries, maybe a length of wire to hook around the two springs holding the pipes in to the can, to release them? and..dont forget the gaskets that go between the pipes and the can!

Now the air filters. Be very carefull with the bolts that hold the air tubes to the air bow. Dont cross thread them!

well i wouldn't remove the sub frame but just undo the bottom two nuts and slacken of the top two then leaver it up, you can then access the cans.
firstly though remove the seat then tank so you can put your trick filter in

A common problem is that a newly-installed exhaust pipe or slip-on doesn't fit properly which causes the bike to backfire on decelleration. Aftermarket pipes are not a precision fit and often they let in combustion air that, when mixed with unburned fuel, results in the fuel being burned in the muffler. To prevent this, use a high temperature silicon sealant at the joints to keep the air out.

I recommend Permatex Ultra-Copper high temp RTV silicone gasket maker #101BR for the aftermarket slip-on system joints. Good to 700?F intermittent. Available in auto parts stores.

http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...tem_no =81878

I found the most awkward part was fitting the ecu unit, the first one i did on my brothers old bike had us fiddling for about an hour before we realised that the plugs that go into the ecu were on a cam and not just a push/pull fitting !

It is not that it is hard to fit just awkward to get into as the wiring and battery cables do not have much slack to enable them to be pullled out more.

sound advice about the subframe . detach the seat part from the tank for clearance , 17mm bolt under in centre.

You don't remove the tank on 749/999 to fit the filters , it's top fairing off I'm afraid and then remove airtubes , 3 x 5mm allen screws , old filters out new filters in , re-fit airtubes and top fairing.

easiest was to fit ecu is remove battery , disconnect wire to front plug , sidestand and sensor , unbolt battery box housing and swing out towards rear of bike , ecu has 2 small bolts through from outside and then open the cam locks on the connector pins to remove , fit new ecu and reverse the procedure.

if it is a full system you are fitting , don't forget to fit the spacer kit to the r/h footrest mount for clearance.


...............have fun :burn:

......and if one of the bolts is already cross-threaded?? When I undid the bolts, one was loose and just spinning in it's thread. I've managed to get it out, but it looks like I'm going to have to re-tap it, unless anyone's got a better idea :puzzled:

:devil:Threadlock and gaffer tape:devil:

Ahhh....so it was you that last serviced my bike :eureka:

:devil:Factory Trained:devil:

Finally found the time to put it all back together.

Couple of questions though:-

In the de-cat'd pipe for the front pot, there is a threaded hole just after the joint with the manifold. What is it there for?
I've tried to get the bolt out of the old pipe to re-use, but it won't budge. Is it simply a case of finding a bolt the same size to block it off?

Its the take off for CO to set up fuel injection mixture

if you can find a bolt with a fine thread like the original any will do

try tapping the head of the old bung with a hammer (it crushes the copper washer) and you can usually remove it with your fingers

Don't use a bolt , the "plug" for the C02 sensor point is only the same depth as the boss it screws into , a bolt will protrude into the flow of the exhaust.

Get some "easit" or penetrating oil on the plug in the standard pipe for a while and then try removing it again , or go to your dealer and buy a new plug for your de-catted pipe.