Anyone ever used this oil in their 600?
 

anyone ever used this oil in there 600? ive been to cadwell today to test the bike out and the clutch slips really bad. http://bit.ly/14NIZu8

I haven't ridden it before today so have no idea if it could be just the oil or if it is the clutch itself.

Fully synthetic should not make the clutch slip on a 600, 620 will slip though, but i have never used that grade oil before, why not pop into Italia and speak to Terry and sort a race package deal with him;)


Chris :burn:

Silkolene comp4 is my oil of choice. Been using itbsince about 2001 when i moved into Sound of Thunder with well over twice the power of a class B bike and still use it in my Class A bike. never had any clutch issues or any other iszusue with it.

Thanks for the replies. There must be a problem with the clutch then.
Whilst I'm on the subject of by bikes problems I have another question if anyone may have any suggestions why after my 1st session today or once the bike was warlmed up it decided to idel at nearly 3000rpm and its not down to the choke or throttle cables catching.

Try using a semi synthetic oil, as it may be down to the make of plates, did the clutch still slip on the second /third session?

Being a race bike it will probably have a dynojet kit in it and also the tickover will have been increased, and that is a sympton of a hot bike with a high initial tickover.


Chris:burn:

Thanks Chris. Yes been slipping every session through all the gears when hard on the gas. I have just been reading about clutch slipping issues related to the hydraulic system and there seems to be a couple of things I can check relating to that seems as though I did change the clutch fluid at the weekend and I'm no mechanic by any means.

I'm from Yorkshire so wouldn't spend on fully synth oil unless i really had too!! I only use semi synth ( rock oil 10w / 40 ) and its never given me an problems on the DD bike. I did have really bad clutch slip once on my Cbr but that was down to clutch plates bring worn out and probably the wrong stack height. I don't know about the oil for the Ducati 600s but wouldn't see that as the problem. Might be worth checking the manual for recommended oil and stack height.

If you have an adjustable clutch lever make sure you have enough free play. Even the coffin shaped master cylinders have room for adjustment in the lever. :)

I will have a play with the clutch lever 1st then that sounds like the most simple thing to check 1st. I have 996 levers on it.

Could be the same problem that Banger San (Andy) maybe suffering, we were discussing it at the bike night on Monday. He suffered clutch slip at Oulton and one of his winter upgrades was to fit a later master cylinder.
These are often smaller than the original dropping the piston diameter from the original 13mm down to 12mm. Andy was saying he was getting more clutch drag when the bike was in gear with the clutch disengaged. This may well cause more heat to get into the clutch and could effect the steel drive plates, check to see if they signs of hot spots (brown patches)

I think my clutch problem my be just the free play in the lever issue as there is no play whatsoever. Anyone know how to adjust the free play on the brembo 996 type levers? I've tried ajusting the round dial on top of the lever through numbers 1-4 but not sure if this just alters the distance between the lever and the bars or if it is to adjust free play. Is there somewhere else to adjust free play? Thanks in advance

As you have found the Dial is just a span adjuster
The 996 Clutch master uses a bush that screws on to the push rod and has a small hex socket grub screw holding it in position.
Need to loosen the grub screw and screw the bush further on to the push rod

I'm still trying to get to the bottom of this slipping clutch problem. So I bought a used clutch of evilbay which arrived today so I thought I'd try changing the clutch plates over. The clutch came off a 94 ss same model and year as mine but the clutches are different and have a different number of clutch plates in them. So that idea is out the window. I'm not sure if I can swap the whole clutch over. Anyway when looking at my steel plates and friction plates they look in better condition than this replacement one I bought so does anyone have any tips on checking if the clutch plates/friction plates are knackerd. The steel plates are all one colour no dark spots or bluing. The friction plates are black but so are the replacement ones. Im no expert but if i was to have a guess i eould say the clutch looks ok.Is it a case of measuring thickness etc. any suggestions would be greatfuly received.
Shane

There should be a minimum thickness of friction plate and steel plate, in the manual somewhere, just check 'em with a vernier.

Also make sure you have the correct quantity of each plate.

Other things to check would be that the steel plates aren't warped, check them on a sheet of glass.

The other factor would be the springs, check for minimum length etc. I don't know if you can do it with Ducati's but is it possible to fit a washer under each spring to increase tension, it worked on my TLS

Thanks yogi