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storing a 748s over winter I know its being asked many times b4 but there is always new wisdom no doubt so could any1 point me towards the best way to put my 748s to sleep for winter? Just had all the servicing done inc oil changes and will not now be run until the gritting stops, so march probably I had thought as follows - raise off floor, reduce pressures by 10psi - will this strain the rear hub as on a single sided paddock stand? no fuel draining i can think of ? wd40 all over the engine and parts cover the exhausts tsp of oil in the 2 bores, turn over by hand in say 3rd then put sparks back in oil all pivots, cables and joints remove battery and put on a trickle charger anyone think of anything else? or tell me the above is wrong? [Edited on 18-11-2005 by loverobot] [Edited on 23-11-2005 by loverobot] |
That all sounds sensible, but remember that if you don't run the engine regularly the belts will deform in the position that they are sitting stationary. i guess you're probably going to replace the belts at the start of the riding season anyway? |
Hmmm now you have me thinking upon advice i had the whole shebang done last week................ |
A better way to make sureit stays in perfect condition is.......to keep on riding it! It's only a bit of cold air, warm baselayer under leathers, winter socks and some decent gloves. Boing, your sorted. And Scottoiler FS354 spray to keep the road salt, grit and grime off the bike's nether regions. Or you could put it away as you say. |
A better way to make sure it stays in perfect condition is.......to keep on riding it! It's only a bit of cold air - a warm baselayer under your leathers, some winter socks and some decent gloves. Boing, your sorted. And Scottoiler FS354 spray to keep the road salt, grit and grime off the bike's nether regions. Or you could put it away as you say. |
i do continue riding other bikes over the winter but the 748 is more mint than a polo mint thats brand new and minty so i worry worry worry about the salt :lol: |
Quote:
Ducati's are like chocolate tea pots. mine will melt or rot if it sniffs our salt covered roads [Edited on 18-11-2005 by keefer] |
presumeably anyway if i keep rotating the rear wheel in gear it will move the belts as well anyway and therfore prob sorted? also am i right in thinking that apart from the tank the rest cant really be drained of fuel with it being carbless? [Edited on 18-11-2005 by loverobot] |
I think it is best to leave fuel in tank and make sure it is FULL. |
Nah; once a week warm it up then ride it to top-up with fuel and do the jet-wash. (carefully) If the weather's ok then, er... go somewhere! Dukes are fine and reliable IF USED!!! |
A good regular clean and run the engine up to normal running temp at the weekends and keep it on the optimate. keep the tank as full as possible. If the bikes a minter keep it in the garage as Mr road salt loves Italian....:( |
Don't know about dukes specifically (yet) but i always keep my bikes running in some way over winter. Even just warming up the engine at the weekend and running it up and down the drive to remove condensation from the bike helps i believe. Give it a little polish or tighten/check a few nuts and bolts as it warms up. It all helps. That and a complete going over with wd40 plus a battery charger. It's 1000% better to keep moving parts lubricated by letting the engine and gearbox operate now and then or else you'll get potentially terminal problems IMHO. Engines will run practically forever if kept operational and therefore lubricated but if you let them stand for a while then that's asking for trouble. Good luck and hope this helps. |
And i agree about keeping a full tank too. Far less chance of condensation forming. I suppose you could add octane boosters if you're worried about fuel going "off" but perhaps someone can elaborate on this urban myth as i've certainly never had a problems starting a bike even after a few months with the same fuel in the tank. |
has anyone else had any thoughts particularly re the fuel drain issue - its not like my 600ss where i have to drain the carbs |
My personal view is just leave it alone with petrol in. I do this and have never had a problem with all the bikes/lawn mowers/chain saws etc I have ever had. If its got carbs then definatelt drain them (or run the engine dry). IMO starting once a week is a bad idea (unless you are going to ride it) as nearly all engine wear happens on cold starts. Turning the engine a little every month would be a good idea to stop the belts getting a set. I do, however, always take it easy on the first Spring ride until the old petrol is burnt off. Keith |
ok, the plan is as follows - 748s on stands fill tank to brim plugs out oil in bores rotate rear wheel in gear 3 revolutions optimate on battery wd40 on engine and parts 600ss as above but running the bike with the fuel off to clear the carbs first please tell me if any of the above will cause impending doom! |
boing |
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