Front fork height.
 

Anyone no what the front fork height is above the top yoke on a 583.Photos show 4 rings mines on 6 but set by a vertically challenged person and the handbook says nothing.Any ideas:D

Reading through my DD diary from last year it looks as if I had 20mm protruding before I started playing with different preload spacers.

http://www.ducatisportingclub.com/xm...5043#pid216513

It's not that easy - depends on your springs, oil, air gap, valve changes and any other mods you've done. Then there's the back end to worry about, before even considering your own weight and the weight distribution to take into account.

Just set it at something (like in the middle) and see how it goes for your testing, then adjust from there. Sounds simple/silly/unhelpful, but that's the only thing you can adjust on the track!

Thanks for that chaps.I think theres more to this than i thought.Anyone no where the road bike would be set as standard.

Enjoyed both of your diarys by the way and made a donation as you requested Antonye.
Thanks again

Don't forget to look up the posts Re: front tyre profile, you can use a 60 or 70. The 70 profile front is 12mm bigger but I think the general consensus is it's the one to go with.
there is also some info on the sigma site wear they suggest that rather than dropping the bike you should be looking to raze it a little at both ends.

Good luck with the fiddling

:saint:

Nice one :D

I think a lot of it is down to personal preference. I started off with 3 rings showing on mine as a base setting, to get some more ground clearance and hopefully sharpen the steering a bit more.

As it was my first time out with the bike built, it felt fine and I didn't want to change it until after about 4 rounds, when I dropped the forks through another line (now 2 showing) to make it turn a bit quicker, but to be honest there was not really much difference!

You'll get the bigger gain by sending your forks away to someone who knows what they're doing and can setup the springs, oil and airgap for your dimensions and the tracks you're on, and what feels right, rather than worrying about what everyone else is doing!

Going fron 3 showing to 2 showing would slow the steering not speed it up, admittedly it would be hard to tell a difference as that much is a tiny amount.

You sure about that? Which way are the forks going?

Yes he's got you there Ant, think you got your foo-kin and your yoking ass up.
If you drop the yoke you see moor rings sticking out the top thus you have theoretically quickened your steering unless you have changed your tyre from the standard 60 profile to a 12mm biger 70mm in which case you would need to drop the yoke down the forks just to get the headstock back to the same position. unless that is you raze the rear instead. That way you gain ground clearance front and rear and at the same time raze the C of G which should help the bike turn.

If that's not right I am sure I will be corrected shortly :D

I thought a higher CoG makes the bike more difficult to initiate the turn in but it drops quicker once it's moving? Then a higher CoG will corner round a given radius with less lean angle than something with a lower CoG?

Meh :puzzled:

Glyn send him back to school

LOL

dropping the forks thro IE having more rings showing will make it steer quicker :) Imagine a cruiser with it's long forks, having less rings showing is pushing more fork thro the yokes, if those forks were 2m long you can imagine how slow it would steer. By having more rings showing you are lessing the rake of the forks so making it steer quicker :)

I do think this type of bike can have them through quite a way as it's a stable machine, also rasing the rear suspension and the riders seat can have a good effect of getting more weight over the front again helping turn in.

I know dropping the yokes down the forks make it steer quicker, it reduces the rake angle and trail, I was on about CoG and heights by adjusting both front and rear, i.e adjust both front and rear either way identically to keep the rake angle the same will still effect the handling like I explained wouldn't it?

I tried all sorts of setups, but the one that worked by far the best was Neil at Sigma's recommendation, up both ends. On the SS I found up 17mm at the rear (a 10mm longer shock), and the forks flush with yokes gave the best balance of tip-in and lineholding.

Ps: too much rear ride height and the front tucks like a nutter (see crash no.2 at Quarry, Castle Coombe)