Dodgy clutch??
 

I have found that with my 996 the clutch is jerky (ie judders) when I pull away from lights etc. It is never a smooth take off and I certainly can't do quick get aways where the clutch slips at high revs of the engine. I have never experienced this before with any of the bikes I've had in the past. Is there a problem with the clutch. It mostly happens after the bike has been running for a while but it can;t be due to a hot clutch as I never have chance to slip it.

Any ideas??

How many miles have the plates done? I generally find that the plates start to slip after about 8-9k, but still last for another 2k with a bit of care on take up.

The steel drive plates will stress relieve because of heat over time. This can cause glazing and some warpage. Clutch dust build up will also contribute to chatter, groaning and slippage. I suggest disassembling your clutch pack, lightly sand the steel plates and clean out the clutch area. Measure the plate thicknesses to verify that they aren't worn out of spec. This should help for a while but the symptoms will likely reoccure in time. Just the nature of dry clutches.

What feels like transmission snatch from the chain when pulling away is often not down to the chain/sprockets but a sure sign that the clutch needs attention.

Depending on use, 996 clutches can last only around 6000 miles - mine lasted until the 12K service before it needed replacing but smooth get-aways were impossible for the last 2500ish miles.

So basically clutch plates need replacing?

Is this a big job requiring special tools/skills or can a competent DIYer, who can cope with 2 to 3 spanners in the haynes manual, do it with a socket set, spanners and a very heavy hammer if the going gets tough!

Replacing a clutch is very simple and only requires a hex wrench to remove the cover and a hex to remove the spring retaining bolts. Once the springs are off, the pressure plate is pulled off and the clutch plates can be removed. Be sure to note the order that they come out so the new unit can be installed the same way. There is a good chance that the steel drive plates can be sanded and reused (measure the thickness to verify they are in spec and are flat). Measure the friction plates as well. I suggest that you pick up a Haynes service manual or download the appropriate information from the ducati.com website. Let me know if you run into any problems and I'll be happy to walk you thru the procedure. My e-mail is: marty91698@yahoo.com

I forgot an important item: Be sure to align the pressure plate properly with the hub or the clutch won't function properly. There is one spring boss with a groove on the outer surface. This should be aligned with the hole in the pressure plate that also has a groove in it. Sorry for the poor description, it's late but I think once you see the assembly when you remove the cover it will make sense. Good luck!

Cheers mate

I have a haynes manual and it shows a strange homemade tool to do the aligning that you mention. I don't have this tool and can't see how it works anyway.

Thanks for the tips anyway, I'll check everything when I get time. It can't be that difficult, he who dares etc...

Regards pete

:o:o:o :P

18,068 miles and still on my original plates and basket

Am I doing something wrong!!!!!!!

I think the strange home made tool in the Haynes is for removing the Clutch BASKET , not the plates !
Removing the plates are easy , one tip though make sure you clean any clutch dust out before putting the new plate in !

The first few plates, and steels are easily removed, once you get further into the basket, they get a bit fiddly...

I cut down a wire coat hanger, and bent it into a handle shape, and then bent both ends to create small tabs, which can easily hook behind each plate, allowing quick/easy removal...

Dry clutch's are designed to run "open" arent they. As delivered new they will run too hot behind that cover. Eurocrats are not interested in the long term health of your clutch. They just want you to be quiet. Let it breathe.

Dry clutches do better when cooled, as mentioned by Keith. The covers are closed to help reduce noise emissions and keep the elements from attacking the works. You could install a vented or open cover to help cool the clutch or if you're a cheap ******* like me you can simply put some spacers between the cover and case. With your consistent wet weather, I would be sure to inspect the clutch often to verify that the works aren't rusting together should you go for an open/vented cover. That tool you saw was in fact the holding tool for removing the clutch hub and has no bearing on the clutch plates.

I think the real reason for a open style cover is to let the dust out rather than to keep it cool.

Sounds like a good reason to tell the wife that I need to buy a ventilated clutch cover. Are you sure I don't need a slipper clutch aswell???

my clutch was slipping in hot weather on my 996, fitted an open cover - problem sorted :)

Got to add my bit here!.

Since I bought my 998s last year i have hated the clutch. It judders and grounches all the time and i get out accelerated by milk floats with flat batteries!. Took it to my dealer who said its was ok and there all like that.

My Jota clutch runs in oil and is super smooth all of the time so I have to ask "are all dry clutches so lousy"?

Sorry forgot to add that I think the clutch is shite! any adeas would be much appreciated.

Guido.....
 

...are you actually using the clutch???

Its that silver lever near the left hand clip-on;););););););););););)

But I thought all dukes were automatics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!