Ride Height
 

How do you calculate what height to start at? Is it just trial and error?

Depends if Julie has got heels on :lol:

Wet your finger and stick it in the air ;)


Chris :burn:

Raise the rear to Max, drop the front as far as it will go, then keep raising the front of the bike until you stop falling off when you tip in.

Actually you don't need to get to that point but just get close enough so that you can push it back up with your knee

But don't try using that setup in the wet, this recipe seems to work for Dallas OK

I'm not going to say a word :lol:

I'm too thick with this subject to know if you are taking the mick or giving proper advise Kev!

So I have been told, Ducati's work best the higher they sit, raise the bike bit by bit till it gets unstable on a straight, then back it off slightly and adjust the front so that it will turn but not run wide. The thing is that if you get faster you will have to adjust again as it will behave differantly.

Basicly, get it working so that you are comfortable, but remember as you get faster it will need adjusting again to get back to that comfortable feeling.

Always note any changes you make and note alongside that what differance it makes on track.


Chris:burn:

You may want to start at the opposite end of the spectrum as Chris suggests

The spectrum ranges from

It's so stable its slow turning but good in the wet

TO

It's so Unstable it keep wanting to Tuck the front and is lethal in the Wet

Finding the point in between the two that gives you confidence to push the bike is where you want to find, then once you are happy with that you can try going more in the unstable direction and see if it improves your times or your physical endurance, ie. not any faster but as fast for longer

Kev is right Simon. :)

that's basically what I did, make big changes. then you feel the difference.

I even made an extended adjuster for the rear shock to get even more height.

That's just greedy!

Another important thing to remember.
It is all well and good doing this but unless, and I stress unless you increase your entry corner speed the bike will feel awful and want to tuck.

Just altering the geometry will not make you go faster!

You must alter your riding style to match.

:)

??? i'm not sure.... obviously you need to go faster to go faster...

Ie as per my earlier post there are two ends to the spectrum

Chronic under steer and running off the edge of the track and chronic over steer where the bike keeps tucking, mucho fun in the met.

Mr Lawson did an Awesome job of adjusting away from one end toward the other at Brands and nabbed 2nd place in Race 3

So why not just go faster an save the arse of fiddling about?

Of course you do my Southern Nemisis. However, if the if extremes of geometry have been reached then making he same effort when cornering will gain no benefit, in fact it would handle worse than ever. Increase your entry corner speed to match the new changes or there abouts and you should make the bike turn quicker and thus go through the corner quicker. Simples. :)

Com'on on Matt even you Southern Bumkins must understand that? ;)

Another thing which can help you go faster.

Do a track day (no brainer really) but... see how fast you can lap at using just the gears to govern your speed and without using any brakes (apart for emergencies).

Go on I dare you.

It does work. :)

That's part of the CSS course. Guys I know also do it around the ring, they are 8 min guys but you may need brakes to achieve that tho'. :eek:

I heard about a guy who ended up bailing out 'coz he thought he was too fast for the corner because he wasn't aloud to use the brakes... :)