The \"servo\" starting.........
 

hmmm, since ive put my bike back together it doesnt seem to start as per the servo starting ie touch the button and away it goes until it runs.

Now at a cough of a start it stops turning.............

Any ideas? Where are any of the electrical gizmos to do with this?

have you swapped cpu's Andy??

No not at all......

Everything is controlled by the CPU.All the starter button does is send a signal to the CPU and tell it to start the bike.I would double check all your wiring connections,..especially the multipin plugs.

I must admit that does seem the obvious route, although i didnt need to dissconnect that much at all. Ive had it running.........its just now it seems to turn a couple of compression strokes and then stop turning. I am on my 3rd battery in 18 months................and it is similar to the symptoms to last time i needed a new battery...

[Edited on 26-2-2006 by andyb]

On page 46 of my owners manual is says..........."If the system is flat it will automatically stop the starter turning over!"

THe wiring is quite clever really, as soon as you disconnect anything like the ambient temp connector or the connector on the oil level/pressure, it illuminates the yellow eng light on the dash!

Read an old link from shazzam...........i might look to geet a ytz7S battery. same shape/size as the yt12b-bs std but a higher cold crank!! They call them High crank batteries......... anyone got one?

Aaah yeah,the battery!!
I forgot that my old 999 bip did exactly the same thing.New battery under warranty cured it.

What were your symptoms then mate?

Poor starting.
It would turn the motor over once or twice then give up.Even with an Optimate connected the starting was poor.When the ignition was first turned on the battery voltage was around 12.2v.
Once the bike had started,the voltage leaped up to around 14v.Battery just would'nt hold its charge.
New battery cured it.

Yeah my display shows 12.3v and ive had the optimate on. All i get it switch on the fuel pump wurrrrs, presss start, it turns once a bit of a cough and the starter stops. switch off do it again. still seems to show 12.3v or so.......
I tried connecting a voltmeter to the battery, when i press the starter it drops to 11.4v.............

If it is the battery, thatll be my 4th!!!
Am i doing summat wrong with my optimate?

I'm just not impressed by those Optimates.
They just dont seem to put enough charge into a sealed battery.Also have you ever seen them 'monitor' a battery?
How come the thing says the battery is good,...switch it off and back on again,...and it starts charging!:puzzled:
Whats that all about?
Not impressed!

[quote]Originally posted by andyb
Yeah my display shows 12.3v and ive had the optimate on. All i get it switch on the fuel pump wurrrrs, presss start, it turns once a bit of a cough and the starter stops. switch off do it again. still seems to show 12.3v



Sorry andy thets not enough to start your bike you should be looking for about 12.75 volts and high 13 volts after a good run or after a charge

[quote]Originally posted by marko

Where did you get that from? Is that written anywhere?

Dunno where it was,but I have heard/read that too.
You need at least 12.5v to power the fuel injection and turn the starter motor.

Oh well, im gunna look to get that ytz7s if i can.if that works as im using the bike only on the track these days. Ill get the original sorted on warranty....again!

moment of inspiration with this as my battery is ok, what about the imobiliser and resetting the engine code............it was a thread by skidlids that i found..ooh i did notice the small red light flashing although i dont have any error codes...........i think.
so who can confirm the routine for checking error codes and the proceedure with the throttle and the imobiliser........

you will only get error codes when the orange engine management light is on....is it?

No Orange light........but flashing small red one.......:puzzled:

Small flashing red one is the immobiliser it'll go off after a few hours/days etc

eh............?

What do you mean eh?

You stated up there you've got a small red flashing light numpty!

small Red light gone.
power straight to the starter and it goes first time..... and the oil red light displays!! i guess this is why it was not starting conventionally!!!!

Now why is it telling me ive got no oil or oil pressure....... switch looks ok and the wire to the switch seems ok too just a push on connector.......cock!

Andy ,there are two wires with identical connectors on the offside of the engine,one does il pressure the other does the neutral light ( i think) check youve not got them swapped !;)
Butch

Ooh, sounds good.........

anyone want to confirm to me any colours of wires on these.....maybe when you get home Butch??

HURRAH................................:sing::sing:

Butch to the top of the class.....all sorted!!!!!!

I couldnt see the wood for the trees!!!!! poxy wire!!!:lol::lol::lol:

would do mate but the baby r is still at johns "having a few bits done":D
Butch

See all that time at coventry hasnt been wasted,now fully factory trained!:lol:
Actully the truth is id done the same thing on the 77 bike,the wire lengths lead you to believe that they go naturally to the wrong sensors.
Glad you sorted it mate.
that'l be one "get out of speeding caed" please mate!:lol::lol:
Butch

Its in the post! If you get stopped, mention my name......... :lol::lol::lol:
Remind me to buy you a drink...its now going up for its service!!! the last thing i wanted to do was send it there with a ..."oh by the way it wont run now" Winker tab on it!!
any money left...................?

Sounds like yer battery mate. I don't trust these Optimates at all, in fact I'm fairly convinced the damn thing has already cooked two batteries.

I now charge the tiny battery on the RS the night before I go to the track, and take a Chuff off big car battery with me which connects into the system via an Anderson coupling to up the cranking current for cold starting. This can then be disconnected when the engine is running.

A YX7 isn't that pricey, get a new one!

No it was my wiring...............i got my battery tested and remarkably it was 12.5 and over 300amps!:o

Andy,

Not wanting to come over as smug, but, when you first listed the thread about stripping the bike I said the following ...


Clearly identify the Neutral switch connector on the loom, looks just like another one (rear brake I think) and you can mix them up.


OK, should have said the neutral switch connector and oil pressure connector ... but you get the idea.

Only reason I know is because I got them back to front as well :(

:lol: yeah i know! The length of the two wires really do fool you into believing they go the other way round!

Hang on a minute.......you wernt watching me suffer with this....... were you? :lol::frog::lol:

Nooooo .... honest :P

I checked back in to the thread to see how you were getting on and noticed the last few comments on the wiring.

When I took my bike to pieces I thought the engineering was awesome. Then found 2 wires with exactly the same length and same connectors .... reminded me I was working on a Ducati :lol:

Sure the factory smiled when they threw that one in to the design.

"I was waiting for someone to spot that".in Captain Mannering voice!