Redex: How Much to Use in 3/4 of a Tank?
 

You may have seen my other "Won't Rev Past 7000rpm" post, which the consensus of opinion seems to be is due to fuel starvation due to a blocked filter.

I have some Redex lying about somewhere.

Just wondering if this might help a little, until I can get round to fitting the new filter.

If so, how much should I use?

Thanks

Errrrrr...no. I wouldn't use it at all tbh. Snake oil - try the things that were suggested first.

Sorry my friend but I wouldnt touch the stuff.
Stick it in your old Ford but not your Duke, thats just my opinion.

Change the filter. If you don't then the next thing to fail will be the regulator.

The filter is on its way, but I'm having to keep using the bike in the meantime as I only just discovered 3 days ago that my Bandit's MOT and tax ran out in March :(

As soon as it arrives, it will be fitted.

On that point, is there anything I should be aware of when changing the filter (apart from put your fag out)? Is it just as described in Haynes, or is there anything they've missed out?

its a pretty straight forward job, can be a bit tricky sometimes getting the pump assembly back into the tank, what with the sealing ring jumping out of place, i use some vaselene and if it puts up a fight run a cable tie round the circumferance to keep it in place while it slots in, then remove the tie of course

Yeah ditto bungi's remarks, careful with the seal putting it in, if you trap it then it'll split, and the first you'll know of it is when you come to re-fill the tank, cos your feet will suddenly be all wet and your airbox full of fuel. Don't ask me how I know please!! It's embarrassing and I'm a professional. Don't know what at sometimes!!! :(

Sorry to be a bit of a numpty, but do i need to drain the tank? :rolleye:

When you remove the tank you'll notice the drain plug, allen key needed here. Don't worry the tank is connected to the rest of the fuel system via 2 self sealing QR couplings. ;)

You may want to get the o-rings that seal the couplings though.
And the one for the fuel pump assembly.
Petrol dripping down a hot engine is a bit worrying!

i had a very nasty flat spot at peak power around about 7.5k on an st2
some times it was that bad i could hardly ride through it

tryed every damn thing you can think of
even got nelly to have a look
he couldn't find any thing wrong either
in the end he suggested an injection cleaner and poured me a good shot in to the tank
bloody hell did she enjoy that
went like bugger
all i can say is my injectors must have been well blocked

so i really should get hold of new seals before i take everything to bits then?


i presume i just open the plug over a suitable container?

i asked about draining the tank 'cos IIRC haynes doesn't specifically tell you to do it. i thought about doing it without draining the tank, but then i realised that when the tank is flipped over to remove the pump, the fuel will flow out of that small (breather?) hole in or just underneath the filler cap.....am i correct?

so to get this straight - i undo the bolt, lift the tank, disconnect the hoses, put the tank to one side, drain the tank via the drain bolt, turn the tank upside down and then crack on with removing the assembly?

sorry for all the daft questions, but as rxtim said, you can't be too careful where petrol and hot metal are in close proximity.

[Edited on 23-4-2006 by zhed44]

[Edited on 23-4-2006 by zhed44]

Never experienced problems with the QR self sealer O-rings but I have snagged the pump unit o-ring and torn it before. At £7.00-ish a go from Ducati they're not cheap for an O-ring, but unless you have a shop around the corner it might just be worth having an O-ring on standby just in case.
Your procedure is correct, tank only just lifts off the airbox though, for you to disconnect fuel lines and breather pipes.
Good luck
:)

2 (hopefully) last questions -

will my bike (1998 748BP) be fitted with QR connectors? haynes states that there are 2 types and if QRs are not fitted, to be prepared for residual fuel escape from the pipes.

once it's all reassembled, especially if the connectors are not QR, then i presume there will be airlocks in the fuel system. will these just get pumped through or does the system need to be primed or bled in any way?

thanks for all the advice everyone - it's very helpful. i'm not sure i would have felt ready to do this and other jobs without the safety net of the advice i get on here
:)

My first and second 748's were both 98 models (binned the first one) and they both had QR couplings. No priming or bleeding necessary, just connect up, run up pump and go!!!!

I managed to get 2 small snags in my QR o-rings which resulted in small flat spots on the rings, enough to leak on an up to temperature engine. Luckily only about 30 seconds from home!

They are only about 18p each!

Are you sure - pretty sure my 2000BP doesn't have QR couplings? Was thinking of fitting some to make life easier - anyone suggest a good model?

Then again a wiser one will no doubt be along soon to correct me.

D