Front wheel disassembly 999
 

Guys..help..before to use the same manners I am use on my CRF450 MX... I am searching for advise...
I want to install my new front carbon mudguard, and I need to remove the front wheel.
Looking at that, I suppose that the axial is threaded on the left side looking at the bike, side opposite to the nut.
Do I need a special tool? On the 2005 catalog, downloaded by the Ducati.com.. it looks like I need a special wrench 8000.70139 (spindle wrench)...
Ok..to me It looks like that I can manage to remove it even withouth this wrench.. but before to do a dramatic DYI... I am asking to you guys that surely have already done this...
Thanks
Brogins:puzzled::puzzled::puzzled:

PS. It can't be tread..can be??

check out Shazaam!'s previous thread

wheel removal

Hmm,Ive fitted a carbon front guard to my 999 but I did'nt have to remove the front wheel.The standard guard will come out with a bit of jiggling (word of the day!;) ).The carbon guard was a lot thinner and slipped behind the forks a treat.
If you need to remove the front wheel,just unbolt the calipers then undo the spindle nut.Loosen off the fork bottom pinch bolts and the spindle should "push" out.It is not threaded into the fork legs.

Thanks Guys.. I will try first without removing the wheel.. with some jiggling! ..in case I will use the procedures described in the previous thread..
Any place where I can find Torque values???

Yes mate,they are all here in PDF,
http://phreak.vwh.net/999torque.pdf

be sure to read Shazaam!'s thread though cos refitting the front wheel incorrectly can lead to problems.

CUT & PASTE FROM SHAZAAM!

Front Wheel Installation Procedure



If you don’t follow the proper installation sequence, you can incorrectly align the front axle in the forks. Also, be particularly careful when you tighten the pinch bolts - the Ducati axle is thin-walled and will ovalize if these bolts are over-torqued.

You can use a dowel inserted from the left side to hold the wheel in position. Put anti-seize or grease on the axle and then insert it from the right side (of the bike). To avoid damaging the thin-walled axle, tap it in gently and rotate it using the special tool from your Ducati tool kit. Once it is in, line up the holes in the axle with the holes in the axle clamps so that the through-holes allow screwdriver access to the compression valve adjusters. The common mistake made here is to just tighten everything up at this point. Instead, here’s the proper sequence to assure that the forks are aligned.

Temporally tighten-up the two RIGHT side axle clamp bolts so you can torque the axle nut.

Put on the (left side) 28mm axle nut and torque it (63Nm.)

Then torque the two LEFT side clamp bolts (19Nm.)

Now, put the brake calipers back on using the proper torque setting (43 Nm.)

Then, loosen the two RIGHT side clamp bolts.

Take the bike off the paddock stand, and bounce the suspension up and down till you are sure that the right side fork has moved to the proper (neutral) position along the axle. (It makes it easier to compress the suspension if you hold the front brake on when rocking the bike forward.)

Once this is done, torque the two RIGHT side clamp bolts to 19Nm, reconnect the speedometer cable, and you’re done.

thanks timetrial, thanks Keefy.. got the torque value and the procedure.
Work done, and yes I could have jiggled the OEM guard out but I have preferred to remove the wheel. How stupid am I thinking about the tread on the axial.. the funny shape of the splindle is made apposite for the fork regulation. I use the same procedure with the dirtbike, in order to align correctly the wheel with the fork.. The carbon bling mudguard look good !!
Thanks again guys..this forum is great!! ..and full of nice people too!!