Clutch slipping
 

i've noticed recently that the 748 has been getting a bit sluggish. the crunch came a couple of days ago, when i rode the bandit and the 748 back to back for the first time in ages and the duke felt slow :(

when going for an uphill overtake tonight, i noticed that the clutch is slipping and also a few minutes later when i gave it the berries on a dual carriageway - revving and bellowing away, but not much of an increase in forward motion. then when i got home i spotted that there is a bit of black dust around the frame and foot peg area (it's fitted with a standard clutch cover BTW)

this is effectively my first dry clutch bike (i had another 748 but it was stolen after only 3 weeks), so any advice, quick fixes or recommendations are much appreciated as always.

thanks. :)

[Edited on 23-3-2006 by zhed44]

[Edited on 23-3-2006 by zhed44]

I strip mine and clean it all with brake cleaner. Its coming up on 15,000 miles old now and i've thought its been on its last legs several times but after a clean it just keeps on going.

It's dead easy to take it apart and clean it i was in the middle of writing it down in this post but realised someone will just repeat what i say anyway so i'll let someone else do it .

buy a haynes manual they get knocked but it's dead easy to follow the procedure from the haynes 1/2 hour job at the most

[Edited on 23-3-2006 by Nigel C]

Agree. Take the plates out and clean. I also get rid of the blueing on the metal plates with a scotchbrite attachment in my drill. Give the clutch plates a shuffle, like a pack of cards, and reassemble in the correct order (noting the dished plates). Sorts the graunching noise out as well.

thanks rock, chris and nigel :)

i was just looking at the haynes manual a minute a go. looks like strip and clean it is then.

would refitting a vented cover help stop this happening again? i did have one, but i got rid 'cos of the racket it made. obviously the dust has to go somewhere, so surely it's better if it goes out into the air through the slots rather than clogging up the plates?

[Edited on 23-3-2006 by zhed44]

I forgot to say that i glaze bust the steel plates with fine glass paper as well.
Tip of the day is to not tighten up the spring cap bolts too much or they will snap! Just nip them up with a short allen key.

I'm undecided about open covers. I run a standard one but i sometimes take the rubber gasket out if i'm going on the track (and use some spacers instead).

My 888 has an aftermarket unvented carbon cover (don't like carbon covers a lot, but it came with it). It has spacers between it and the clutch casing so that there is a 2-3 mm gap. Let's the dust out very well.

Obviously an open cover is going to allow the clutch to cool better and vent the waste product (dust) to atmosphere. Noisy though they are, unless you religiously clean out the cover, then sooner or later you will suffer some detrimental effects of clutch dust (clogging, grabbing, screeching, dragging, slipping etc.)
If you're anti noise then stay closed but clean out regularly. For now give it a clean and see what it does, but in reality the clutch plate change is a piece of cake, just make sure you keep the metal plates in the same order!! Good luck :)

Thanks for all the replies.

As I'm probably the most hamfisted, fastener rounding, parts losing, knuckle skinning mechanic on the board and I also have almost no spare time due to work, study and family commitments, is it possible to get a bit of life into the clutch (its still rideable, just not much fun really)

by either:
a) taking off the cover and having a good blow round with compressed air
b) taking off the cover and having a good spray around with brake cleaner (or is this a very bad idea due to washing grease out of bearings and such like?)

Your sagacity is appreciated as always :D

[Edited on 30-3-2006 by zhed44]

I'd use the brake cleaner method if you really can't take the plates out!