Can Anyone in N. London Help Me With a Snapped Stud Please?
 

It's a stainless fastener in one of the clutch spring posts. It didn't snap off flush - instead, it is around 4-5mm into the hole. Luckily, it's a brand new fastener and the threads had just been copper-slipped

I could get some stud extractors and do the job myself, but I'm a bit cack handed when it comes to these things and I don't trust myself not to slip and drill the thread at the same time. Not to mention, it's going to be really awkward to centre-punch the remaining bit of the stud.

I'm now bike-less until this is fixed because the MOT also ran out on the Bandit last week and due to noisy can/slightly blowing join/missing indi it won't pass at the moment. In any event, I've just remembered, the insurance ran out yesterday.

So if anyone who's a bit handy could pop over and get this stud out for me, I'd be really grateful.

As there might not be anyone willing/able to help me, any advice on what to use and how to do it would be really appreciated, in case I need to do the job myself :(

Thanks

[Edited on 13-5-2006 by zhed44]

How much of the bolt is sticking out of the spring post?Is there enough metal there to get some molegrips on it?

If you get really stuck one thing you could do is to remove the clutch basket and get the screw spark eroded.

I've had this done before when a stud snapped and there was no easy way of drilling it out.

Do a search on yell.com for spark erosion...

I know its a bit of a pain but if you can't easily drill the screw out it might be your only option...

Good luck:)

i did the same thing
took my mate nelly at corner speed bout 10 mins to pick it undone with a pointy thing
id been at it for ages and hade no joy
and that was snapped well below the level

I did the same thing, managed to get it out with a small screwdriver.

none whatsoever. it's snapped approx 4 or 5mm into the hole, otherwise i would have been onto it with the mole grips or would have cut a slot for a screw driver straight away.

i also don't think it's going to be too easy to get at with a centrepunch either due to the depth and the narrowness of the hole and so if stude extractors are to be used, it may need drilling without a starting point - and the broken surface is very rough, so that's going to be a bit precarious!

exactly the same as mine
the rough surface of the brake should allow you to push the remaining stud anti clockwise with a pointy immpliment thingy

thanks for that - as it's pretty non invasive, it's gotta be worth a try.

i have heat and have a freezy spray thingy. i was thinking a bit of heat on the outside of the post and a bit of cold on the stud might create a tiny bit of a gap and so make the job easier.

i also thought of getting some chemical metal on the end of the other half and, in effect, gluing the 2 halves back together. if it's strong enough, i might just be able to turn it (i don't think it will be), but even if it isnt, i'll be able to drill the hole for a stud extractor much more accurately. bit concerned though about clogging the internal thread with the stuff though.


any thoughts on that idea anyone?

Mine was exactly like Glyns. The fractured end of the bolt was just rough enough to allow me to turn it wih a very small screw driver. The bolt shouldn't be tight in the post, with the head off it should turn very easily.

if I was you - and as you say its been recently greased - I would CAREFULLY use a samll drill bit - drill a tiny hole in whats left of the bolt - get a tap slightly bigger than the hole you have just drilled - and start tapping into the hole - then try and reverse out the bolt by unsrewing the tap.

this sounds crazy - but its worked for me several times - the last time being a siezed and shagged Ti bolt in a rearset - a tap usually snags nicely on a new thread it has just cut.

Khushy