| I use PJ1 ("Blue" I think) as I don't like the look of the Castrol Chain Wax and I'm not sure that it's really any better than a good quality "low fling" chain lube.
With a chain, you want to lubricate the gaskets that are keeping the lubricant sealed in the rollers. These will be either o-rings or x-rings of some description.
As the chain degrades, the o-rings will decay and split, leaking the lubricant inside and hence your chain becomes stiff and unserviceable.
My guide for cleaning your chain is:
1. Always use a paddock stand as it makes it much, much easier to both clean and lube your chain.
2. Start off with cleaning all the old lubricant and the built up dirt/grit off the chain. I use WD40 to do this as it is an excellent degreaser and cleans it up nicely. Put plenty on a cloth and wipe it over the chain to get off all the grit first. You can then use an old toothbrush to really scrub off the remaining crud from the chain. Finally wipe over with a dry, soft cloth to remove as much of the WD40 as possible.
TOP TIP: You will have a rivet-link in your chain where it was fitted to the bike. This shows up as an over-size gold blob on your chain. Rotate the wheel so you start at this point. As you work your way along the chain, you know when to stop as you reach the rivet again!
3. Now use a light gear oil (3-in-1 is fine) and apply a small drop on every link. Yes this sounds tedious but it is worth it for the excellent results it gives. You want to oil the section where the roller meets the plate as this is where the o-ring is. Applying a drop here on top of the plate will lubricate both sides of the plate and both o-rings. This means 4 (small) drops per link!
TOP TIP: Always work on the bottom half of the chain (under the swingarm) lubing it from the top. This is so that as the wheel rotates, the "fling" force generated mean the lube is thrown outwards and moves from the inside out. This means you get all of the chain and not just the outside edges.
4. Now that you've lubed the whole chain, and the light gear oil has done it's job, you want to get all the excess off otherwise it will end up all over your back wheel. Using another soft, dry cloth, hold the chain lightly in the cloth and spin the back wheel (this is why you need a paddock stand!). Keep going until you remove as much excess as possible from the chain as this will water down your chain lube, which is the next step...
5. Now apply a good quality chain lube to the chain as normal. Again start from the rivet and apply just a small dollop at the roller points. I usually wipe the surfaces as I go to smear a nice thin coat over the plates. This also means you don't put too much on. Once you've finished, give it a final wipe over to remove any excess and you should now have a really good looking chain!
You may need to wipe over your wheels after the first time you go out, so use WD40 (don't get it on the rear brake disk!) as this not only cleans but leaves a coating which makes shifting it next time a lot easier.
I clean and lube my chain about every thousand miles or couple of months, depending on use and conditions. Don't leave your chain too long of you've been riding in lots of wet weather as this strips the chain of the lubricant.
In the seven thousand miles I've done so far on the bike, the chain has remained within tolerance and not required adjustment, so that extra half hour spent cleaning your chain is well worth it!  |