<Later that same night...>
Looks like most of the bulbholders are accessible without removing the instruments, certainly the one I want to change is.
But... are those rubber bulbholders a pig to extract, or what?
Maybe it's partly the legacy of my left-outside-in-all-weathers bike, but I tugged and I pulled and I hooked small screwdrivers, allen keys, fingernails, all sorts in there to shift it. Would it budge?
'Course I was leery of being too brutal and breaking the wires.
Eventually after what seemed like hours of struggling, I managed to pry it out with the rounded tip of a table knife. Changed bulb out and coated the bulbholder in Vaseline before replacing..
I notice the Haynes manual uses the weasel words "Ease the relevant bulbholder out of position..."
"Ease" be fooked!"
Still, if they only fail every 36000 miles...
