| Bleeding Air from Clutch Hydraulics
It's really pretty simple after you install a bleeder fitting up at the clutch master cylinder since any air bubbles in the system will rise to the highest point in the system.
First you fill the master cylinder with fluid. It helps then if you have a second set of hands. One workable approach is for you to pump the clutch lever several times and then hold it down - while the bleed nipple is opened, fluid released for a second or so (purged air is seen as bubbles in the fluid) and the nipple closed again by an assistant. THEN relax your grip and squeeze repeatedly again. Just be careful not to release tension on the handle while your assistant's got the bleeder open. If you do, it sucks air back into the system.
With each cycle of bleeding, the lever should meet with more resistance, indicating that the air is being removed from the system (there should also be progressively fewer bubbles seen in the purged fluid.) Eventually the system fills with hydraulic fluid, the pressure builds, the lever firms up and the bubbles stop.
Sometimes air bubbles get trapped so try tapping the slave cylinder, hose and master cylinder assembly. This will help send the bubbles up to the bleed nipple. Go for a ride and then bleed it again later to be sure. If your clutch doesn't easily slip into neutral, there's likely still air in the system.
Be careful with DOT 3 and 4 hydraulic fluid. Keep plenty of rags handy to clean up any spills and cover everything. The fluid is corrosive and will damage painted surfaces and certain plastics. Use a piece of transparent plastic tubing that is a tight-fit over the bleed nipple and that directs the fluid to a clear glass container.  | 
09-Aug-2003, 22:06 
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