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  #11  
Old 30-Jan-2004, 06:54
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chris.p chris.p is offline
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With regards to lubing the chain when warm.
Go out on a good long run, straight into the garage, rear paddock stand on, whip off the sprocket cover, rag on the floor, loved one to turn the rear whell, spray lube onto the top o the chain on the bottem run as it leave the front sprocket, wipe off excess. job done.

The chain will stay warm for some time if it has been on a good run, I alwas did it to my race bike once a day when I came in from the last race, also if you have seen a marshall pick up a chain slung from a race bike you will know that with out gloves the chain will burn the hands before you know it.

Chris
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  #12  
Old 30-Jan-2004, 07:39
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DSC Member Guido Guido is offline
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Mood: Awaiting the arrival of the sun and the disappearance of the rain
I've now resorted to brushing engine oil over my chain. Takes about 10 mins when I do it properly but I have found that chain adjustment is a thing of the past now. Might be a fluke but have heard of others not adjusting their chains when this is comon practice.

Used to swear by Castrol Chain Wax but it is a bugger to clean off.
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  #13  
Old 30-Jan-2004, 10:48
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Brushing engine oil onto the chain is effectivly what a Scotoiler does although i think they use something similar to chainsaw oil.

I seem to remember that most manufacturers recommend EP80/90 gear box oil as that withstands high pressures better than engine oil and is totally safe on all kinds of o rings.

I used to use castrol chain wax but as you say it does make everything go white and its difficult to get off.
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  #14  
Old 31-Jan-2004, 19:53
paulmort paulmort is offline
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Mood: Blooo Duke gets red heads
bugger it

ride hard and fast
when chain gets slack, adjust rear wheel, when run out of adjustment, get nelly to fit new chain
Bikes are for riding, not playing wiff parrafin, kerosene blah dee blah and all this lube stuff
BUT Nelly did tell me that I'll get an extra 10 brake at the rear wheel now that its been cleaned and lubed and all them tekky things
does that meeeeen I go faster then?? or outburn those bl**dy subaroo impression thingy 4 weeely jobbies?
beaSStie done and ready for road. Whatch out for the piccies folks cany get grin orfft face after listening to it today
By the way Andy, Paul, got to have a bit of license where names are involved
srri Rockjob and Rushhopper
rgds, a drooling and ear to ere grinnin' mort
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  #15  
Old 09-Feb-2004, 18:23
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Glyn Glyn is offline
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Mood: st2......we can rebuild
nice to meet you the other day paul

nelly did mention your chain, said the revs actually went up as he cleaned it
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  #16  
Old 10-Feb-2004, 20:13
paulmort paulmort is offline
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Mood: Blooo Duke gets red heads
Glyn

Nelly likes to tell us non tekky folk how to get an extra 10 hp at the rear wheel, dont he???
So cleaned and lubed chain, I thought the kinks in the chain were meant to be there
Doh, I'll get me coat then
rgds
Mort

ps, couldnt make the meet tonite peeps, as was goin for free dinner, booze etc, woz called orft at last minute, as KB would say ....Boo Hooo
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  #17  
Old 30-Dec-2004, 11:06
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Shazzaam, i remember you posting a link about seal compatabilty and WD40 but i cant find it. I notice that at www.wd40.com they have removed all referances to motorcycle chains from the web site!
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  #18  
Old 30-Dec-2004, 13:00
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rcgbob44 rcgbob44 is offline
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I just clean mine with a rag with WD40 then give the chain a very light spray with WD40 then wipe of any exess so that it almost looks "dry".
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  #19  
Old 30-Dec-2004, 14:23
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DSC Member Shazaam! Shazaam! is offline
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Motorcycle chains use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings. The manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner.

Here's the formulation of WD-40:

80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene)
20% light lubricating oil, and a bit of fragrance.

Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent

[Edited on 12-30-2004 by Shazaam!]
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  #20  
Old 30-Dec-2004, 17:47
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Thats the one i was after. Many thanks.
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