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Old 02-May-2006, 23:08
minty70uk minty70uk is offline
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Electrical Fault 916

Anybody help? My damn 916 has developed an electrical fault the Reg / Volt 3 amp fuse blew Friday causing it to break down, got a replacement delivered to roadside which lasted about a mile anyway managed to get home in the end. According to the Haynes manual this is the fuse for right handle bar switches hence kill switch but it also goes to regulator / rectifier. Traced all the wires through the loom and as far as I can tell they and the connections look ok. The bike is a 1995 Biposta with only 7500 miles on it, bought off the original owner last summer hence it is like new. When I bought it I was informed that it had a heavy duty regulator / rectifier fitted by Alvins of Aberdeen under warranty not sure whether this helps in finding the problem. Whilst I was looking around the large heavy duty 30 amp charger fuse looked in extremley poor condition hence held by a thread. I will replace this but just after a bit of advice really.
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Old 02-May-2006, 23:12
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nelly nelly is offline
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check the wiring down from the switch to the main loom. try a new fuse and with the ignition on move it around. It'll probably blow. They get trapped on full lock and break. you will need to open up the sheathing to repair it.
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Old 03-May-2006, 08:31
Gizmo Gizmo is offline
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I added a load of stuff on this and other SBK electrical problems , here its worth a read but can get technical if you get stuck one of the contibutors to that, Derek, is up your way and would probably lend a hand.

Quote:
Originally posted by minty70uk
Anybody help? My damn 916 has developed an electrical fault the Reg / Volt 3 amp fuse blew Friday causing it to break down, got a replacement delivered to roadside which lasted about a mile anyway managed to get home in the end. According to the Haynes manual this is the fuse for right handle bar switches hence kill switch but it also goes to regulator / rectifier. Traced all the wires through the loom and as far as I can tell they and the connections look ok. The bike is a 1995 Biposta with only 7500 miles on it, bought off the original owner last summer hence it is like new. When I bought it I was informed that it had a heavy duty regulator / rectifier fitted by Alvins of Aberdeen under warranty not sure whether this helps in finding the problem. Whilst I was looking around the large heavy duty 30 amp charger fuse looked in extremley poor condition hence held by a thread. I will replace this but just after a bit of advice really.

[Edited on 3-5-2006 by Gizmo]
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Old 03-May-2006, 10:27
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Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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I just want to say well done Gizmo for sorting all that techno stuff out.

I have been banging on about sorting out a techinical archive for the main DSC site for years now...everytime it gets a positive response and then nothing...just gets forgotten about. I've been quite happy to sort through everything myself and list them as you have...but still no feedback or encouragement.

Good on ya...and I'll now be refering everyone to your site for techinical tips
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Old 03-May-2006, 12:25
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Derek Derek is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gizmo
I added a load of stuff on this and other SBK electrical problems , here its worth a read but can get technical if you get stuck one of the contibutors to that, Derek, is up your way and would probably lend a hand.

Where about are you Minty?
If you get stuck I'd be happy to help out if I can.
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Old 03-May-2006, 20:54
minty70uk minty70uk is offline
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Right guys an update looked at the stuff Gizmo sent and the only thing I can think is from that info is the fuel filter could be making the pump work harder but not sure. Anyway checked wires from switch and they look ok as do the other wires but I did find that the big 30 amp charger fuse was also blown so replaced that together with the 3 amp and set off for a run with a pocket full of fuses. Got less than a mile! Thank god I have an R1 too! Same again blown big 30 amp fuse and blown 3 amp! Getting pretty angry now, may be time for local garage as I am over 100 miles from Ducati dealer anyone got any ideas? I suspect its the big fuse is causing the problems so any more suggestions would be welcome

Martin
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Old 03-May-2006, 22:38
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Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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Did you check the big white connecting block behind the battery tray/regulator?

It should have a couple of yellow wires going into it...pull the connector apart and take a look inside. Does it look OK?

How do these yellow wires look as they cross across the engine over to the other side. They can become very corroded and brittle over time due to the heavy current loading they carry, and the fact they are not upto the job!
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Old 03-May-2006, 22:43
minty70uk minty70uk is offline
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Took a look at these tonight pulled them apart hence they were not a tight fit, cleaned them and nipped them so they were tight. Could it be the rectifier or fuel filter?
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Old 03-May-2006, 23:18
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Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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I don't think a dodgey rectifier will keep blowing fuses...I would put my money on it being either a wiring issue, or the filter.

Replace the filter and be done with it. They cost pennies and are a dodle to change.

If that doesn't sort it then move on to the next option.

Order one (and associated seals etc) from JHP or such like.
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Old 04-May-2006, 11:12
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Derek Derek is offline
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Change the filter anyway, If you don't know when it was last done it probably needs doing.

The 30A fuse is between the battery and the regulator. There are only 2 ways that it is going to blow;
1. If there a huge load on the battery, like a massive short circuit, causing the regulator to output its full capacity, but alternator couldn't produce that much current anyway.
OR
2. If the voltage regulator is short-circuit internally, connecting the battery voltage to earth. The fuse is there to protect the battery and stop the wiring going on fire in the event of this happening.

The 3A fuse is for the ignition sense to the regulator. The fact that this is also blowing makes me pretty sure that regulator is faulty.
When you have the bike running, connect a meter across the battery reading volts. It should read between 12V and 13V with the ignition off rising to around 14V with the engine running. I think that you'll find that it doesn't.
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