Bikes: 500 Pantah, TT2, 749R, 944ssie, Rickman Kwak 1170, Yam 1200 Super Ten
Posts: 119
Join Date: Nov 2008
Mood: The Older I get the Faster I Was!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunlop0_1
As Phil say's.
Also you won't get good gear changes spinning the rear wheel because the load on the gears (which be very light) is going the wrong, way if that makes sense. The engine normally puts the load on the gears in the right direction. The 996 and the 600 both do it but there's nowt wrong we'em
Dead right Neil.
Simon, I had assumed that the problems you describe are whilst riding the thing, not just p*ssing about with it on the workbench?
Get out there now. No Christmas dinner till its sorted!
Well here's my update. Alternator cover off to see the claw and drum better. Flywheel off when i get the holding tool. Clutch and basket off to see the stopper. I'm not 100% but I suspect the drum is under rotating. Plan is to change the gear selector forks. Thanks to all the dd gurus that have helped so far as this is quite deep engineering for me. And yes ghost, thank god I don't fix helicopters!
Bikes: Class A 620ssie #71 - 853 R/RS Dry - 748sp Wet
Posts: 725
Join Date: Nov 2009
Mood: Green with envy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spjallen
I've had problems all year going up the box, esp 2 to third and third to fourth. It's got progressively worse each round. When I saw your post I thought that's exactly the same as me as I'm hitting lots of false neutrals. Had the alt cover off today but the claws look good but I still don't get 100 % correct gear changes ( when spinning the rear wheel) and I am still getting false neutrals. Claw and drum pins seem in line as per Haynes manual in all gears. If I don't spin the rear wheel changes seem good but I've lost all faith and trust in the gear selections mechanics. Not sure what to check next or maybe just change the selector arm anyway.
Stop fannying about and ride with some aggression! Get your arse in gear, the bikes fine