Wrong tree.
The idea here is to set up the bike's damping to handle the road surface properly, not to lock up the suspension so that the bike's pitching motion is restricted.
When you adjust your suspension, what you’re trying to achieve is what’s called critical damping. A critically damped system approaches equilibrium as fast as possible without any overshoot or oscillation. This is a very desirable attribute in many mechanical and electrical systems. If there’s not enough damping, the system takes a number of oscillations before reaching equilibrium. If there’s too much damping, there’s no oscillation but the system takes too long to reach equilibrium.
When the suspension doesn’t have enough damping, the bike feels unsettled because it takes a number of bounces (oscillations) before the suspension settles back down (reaches equilibrium) after hitting a bump.
When the suspension has too much damping, the bike feels stiff and unyielding because it takes a long time before the suspension recovers from hitting a bump. If you hit a second bump before recovering from a first, the suspension “packs-up” and transmits higher impact forces to the bike and rider, and the wheel has more difficulty tracking pavement irregularities.
This is what you want. A critically-damped suspension system approaches equilibrium as fast as possible without any oscillation, and in the shortest time, after hitting a bump. This is best because it give a rapid recovery without producing either a harsh or bouncy ride, and will gives the best wheel tracking of uneven road surfaces so as to maximize the time in contact with the road. This maximizes tire grip in corners.
You'll just have to let your steering damper do it's job if you get a tankslapper.