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Old 07-Oct-2004, 12:41
Flanners Flanners is offline
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New Clutch?

The clutch on my 916 feels like it is on its way out. Having never replaced it,done 5K+ miles, I was wondering what the cost of a new one was and whether they are easy to fit? Cheers
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Old 07-Oct-2004, 13:01
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What do you mean feels? is it slipping? graunching when you move off? juddering? not disengaging properly?

If it's slipping.... plates need replacing, probably £100+ depending on what plates you're after, surflex, carbon etc, your basket/drum could be worn also, bit neanderthal but you can file down the basket to get rid of the wear marks, but it's a sign it'll need replacing sooner or later.

Graunching is wear in general, strip and clean, get the dust out, check the plates, re-arrange the clutch pack helps etc. Same for juddering.

Not disengaging could be your clutch slave cylinder, check the seals see if there is any fluid leaking, could be air in the system.

Ask Nelly etc, he'll be able to give you a few pointers
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Old 07-Oct-2004, 14:41
yellow916 yellow916 is offline
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Flanners

That doesn't sound like a very high mileage for needing a new clutch? Have you seen the post by Shazaam?:

http://217.199.188.40/xmb/viewthread...11193#pid92900

Andrew
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Old 07-Oct-2004, 14:41
moto748 moto748 is offline
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Wot the 'andsome fella said. First off try taking the plates out and "hiding" the first couple of friction plates (which are usually the most worn) in the middle of the pack. Make sure you maintain any special dished or thin plates in their correct location, though (get a haynes manual is you haven't already got one). And a good clean-out and dust removal is a good thing too. You can probably get a bit more life out of the (outer) basket, but you'll be able to see how notched the grooves when the plates have been removed.

Easy enough to remove the fairing and clutch cover (note not all the allen screws need to be removed to get the cover off, from memory, only 4 have to come out). But be careful undoing and re-tightening the spring screws; it's quite easy to snap off the "turrets". Don't do them up too tight.
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Old 07-Oct-2004, 20:16
Flanners Flanners is offline
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Thanks for some great responses much appreciated.

The clutch feels harder to pull in and the point at which it disengages seems to getting further up the lever action?
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Old 08-Oct-2004, 11:34
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Easiest thing to do is take the clutch to bits, get one of those magnetic telescopic pen things, and remove the cover, pressure plate, and then the plates, using the pen thing, keep them in order, and give everything a good blowout/clean.

I'd be tempted to reshuffled the friction plates but make sure the steel plates are kept in the same order, and build back up.

Then bleed the clutch, and see if that sorts it out.
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Old 08-Oct-2004, 11:58
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Quote:
Originally posted by Flanners
The clutch feels harder to pull in and the point at which it disengages seems to getting further up the lever action?

The harder lever action and engagement point could be down to either the system needs bleeding or the seal has gone in the slave cylinder..........or both.
Work the lever and listen for a "squelching" sound from the slave cylinder. If you can hear that then the seal has most likely gone.

If the clutch is graunching, then like already mentioned, pull the plates and give the whole lot a good clean.
When you replaced the clutch, did you just do the plates? If so, and the basket was too worn then you can accelerate the plate wear because there is already enough room between the tangs to start bashing them.
A new basket and plate set will weigh in around the £200 mark. If they do need replacing, you could use the STM 48T basket and plates as these will last longer and are still on promo at £250. You also get an alloy basket and plate "upgrade" at the same time
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