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  #11  
Old 14-Mar-2006, 17:51
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Ray Ray is offline
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Those 4 pad calipers are a bit step forward.
Went from a 996 BIP with std brakes to a 998r with std brakes up i.e. four pad calipers and IMHO there was a significant improvement in power and feel.

I can't really see how anyone could need anything more. On a local airfield riding day they consistently haul the bike down from 150mph to approx 70mph on one particular corner, lap after lap with no fade. Me arms give up before the brakes do!

Ray.
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  #12  
Old 14-Mar-2006, 18:07
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cl0nd0n cl0nd0n is offline
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I will certainly try new hoses and a good clean first!

Can anyone recommend some reasonable braided hoses / pads that are cost effective ?

Remember it's only a 748bp so won't need top of the line stuff!

Has anyone done a step by step for blleding the brakes on the board before ?

Thanks for all the help!
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  #13  
Old 14-Mar-2006, 18:09
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These will fit - a bargain for a tenner on Buy It Now...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=8046276965
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  #14  
Old 14-Mar-2006, 18:10
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As for bleeding brakes, just follow the instructions in the Haynes manual, as it's amazing how well it works if you follow them right!!
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  #15  
Old 15-Mar-2006, 22:42
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PDL PDL is offline
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HOW TO CLEAN THE PISTONS:

Required items: Brake cleaner, brake grease, copper ease, brick banding (the plastic strip thing that goes round cartons), face mask, gloves, cup of tea.

Take the callipers off as per Haines Manual.
Take brake pads out
Pump brake lever to push pistons outwards (* WARNING* be careful as they will pop out if you pump too far) You will see baked on brake dust to the surface of the piston, make sure you can see it all.
Spray with brake cleaner
Use brick banding, wrap round piston, and gently remove the build up, you will be able to push the pistons in with your fingers if they are clean. The pistons are brass I think, and they look nice when clean.
Once clean rub brake grease onto sides of the piston only (*WARNING* get the right type of grease from local bike dealer)
Dab a little copper ease onto the back of the pad only
Re assemble

DO NOT breather in the brake dust, it’s deadly, wear your mums gloves, and before you go for a ride pump the lever to make sure the pads bed in again.

Why clean the pistons? Because there is a little rubber seal that the build up of brake dust will trap itself behind if you replace with new pads and do not clean the pistons. The new pads push the piston further into the calliper, pushing the build up behind the seal – Outcome is that this will make the brakes less effective with new pads as it may seize a piston.

Optional – the back brakes on the 748 are there as a foot rest only, they don’t really work you can service them if you wish.

Oh take you time, you have all day.
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  #16  
Old 15-Mar-2006, 23:07
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raykay748R raykay748R is offline
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Hoses; got 'HEL' on mine, fantastic finish, banjo bolts and copper washers are all supplied. fitted well and look great. check out their site heaps to choose from and all at a competitive price too.

Where are you? If you're anywhere near Eastbourne, I don't mind helping you out.
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  #17  
Old 15-Mar-2006, 23:27
Bryan996 Bryan996 is offline
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I must disagree with rockhopper about spending money on calipers first.

If you want fantastic brakes - Brembo radial master cyclinder, braded lines(any make), Carbon Lorraine or EBC HH pads.

I have done all the above and then added the brembo P4 calipers and after the master cylinder they made practicaly no differance.

The force applied on the discs from the calipers is dependant on how much fluid you can push down the brake lines. BIG radial master cyclinder means lots of fluid being pushed down the lines, and more force on the pads.

Highly recommended, just make sure you buy a pressure brake light swith as well if you intend to use it on the road.

hope this helps
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  #18  
Old 15-Mar-2006, 23:36
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raykay748R raykay748R is offline
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Force on pads is actually dependant on hydraulic pressure caused by lever acting around a fulcrum. Actual fluid movement is minimal, it is a medium to transfer energy that's all.

I'll get me coat!!!!
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  #19  
Old 15-Mar-2006, 23:44
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raykay748R raykay748R is offline
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Oh yeah, one last point. The stock brembo M/Cyl and lever ratio is, unless I'm mistaken, also 19 mm with a ratio of 16mm although it is not radial but linear. So the quantity of fluid displaced will be the same. No???

Got me coat, that's it I'm going!!!!
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  #20  
Old 15-Mar-2006, 23:52
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nelly nelly is offline
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Not sure of the stock ratio, but the bore is 16mm, hence the big improvements from the radials' 19mm.
The 4 pads give more feel and bite due to them having more leading edges from the 4 pads vs.. the older 2 pads.
When you need to swap pads again, try the Bendix MF compounds. They are very good. Leave HH for dead. Comparable, maybe a little better than SBK3's but cheaper. They really are very good
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