Registered Forum User
Big Twin
Posts: 1,099
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: north hampshire
Mood: is it cos i is a bricklayer
clutch M/C actuating pins
hi all-- i have a 91 750 engine with a dry clutch that i put into my 600ss frame--
the engine itself is faultless now i have sorted out the fuelling issues-- i have one issue outstanding that is the clutch
what i was experiencing is a very sharp clutch it was either in or out, no between- i have upgraded the slave seal to a 748/916 vee type seal and cured the weepy seal problem, i have thourghly cleaned all the plates etc checked stack hights blah de blah renewed the springs etc so i am confident that the clutch is sound but still a very sharp clutch-
now following on from a conversation with PeteB about the intricacies of actuating pin lengths i thought i would have a play-what i have done is backed the adjusting screw out thats in the lever and replaced the clutch master cylinder actuating pin with a longer version , a brake master cylinder actuating pin- ( the clutch pin is 23mm the brake pin is 26mm) i am using the original clutch master cylinder from the 600 engine and now with the longer pin i have a much smoother clutch -- because i used the longer pin i was expecting some clutch slip but there is nothing, it seems to be perfect---
now then what i would like to know is has anyone got an original 750sport or even a 750paso with the dry clutch slave in clutch cover and let me know the length of the actuating pin please?
why would a longer pin have such an effect on the operation of the clutch?
would i be causing any due wear and tear on the master cylinder seals using a longer actuating pin?
would an early dry clutch M/C be different to the later wet clutch M/C?
Last edited by monstermob 998 : 18-Mar-2009 at 17:05.