Ducati Sporting Club UK > DesmoDue Race Series > DesmoDue - General Questions and Chat > Conversion cost

[skidlids]

Originally Posted by steeevvvooo

Quick question… what would be a ROUGH estimate of the cost of converting a road bike to DD trim? What am I missing from the below:

Dynojet + dyno set up £150
Fairings £200
Tyres £150 (would need a new set regardless of buy/build really?
Cheap shock recon + fork set up £200
TOTAL £900

Obviously other bits such as rear sets, clip ons, race pads, master cylinders etc but in terms of the main bits, does the above seem sensible? Do I need anything else?

Seriously considering the conversion route at the moment…

Cost of converting depends on the starting point
What Exhaust does the bike come with,even if its a race can is it quiet enough or does it need repacking as you will get sound checked several times through the season, also does it offer enpugh ground clearance.

Cambelts, cam timing and valve clearances (shimming and half rings) - This applies to road bikes and used DD bikes, when were they last checked/replaced/looked at. Belts are easy enough but shimming and having the cams dialled in may need doing.

Handlebars/clipons these may need changing to suit what ever fairing gets fitted

Brake lines, converting a road bike may require the fitting of Aeroquip hoses

Shock/rear rideheight, if buying a road supersport you'll probably be wanting a longer shock. at least one from an SSie which is 5mm longer and try and get a Showa if going down the rebuild route, but preferably go for an aftermarket shock, one with a ride-height adjuster.
On a Monster you will probably be looking at extenders for the rod end bearings in the rear hoop, and again a 15 year old standard shock is going to either need replacing or a rebuild and again make sure its a make of shock worth rebuilding. I usuall put Sachs shocks where they belong - in the bin

Buying a decently sorted bike that has proven itself can be a good starting point even if it needs a top-end refresh. Knowing your on a bike that has done say a 1m 50s around Cadwell is good for the head, if you find your doing 1m 54s then the chances are its not the bike holding youi back

[bradders]

Originally Posted by skidlids

Buying a decently sorted bike that has proven itself can be a good starting point even if it needs a top-end refresh. Knowing your on a bike that has done say a 1m 50s around Cadwell is good for the head, if you find your doing 1m 54s then the chances are its not the bike holding youi back

especially if it would go faster if the pilot was a little lighter

[Jolley]

Originally Posted by skidlids

Knowing your on a bike that has done say a 1m 50s around Cadwell is good for the head, if you find your doing 1m 54s then the chances are its not the bike holding youi back

...it is all in the head with DD. I am sure that any of the top 5 from last year could have set the same time on just about any of the top ten bikes (if given a few sessions to get used to it). The only difference is that when you really push and start to get close to the edge, you know what the bike you have been riding all year is likely to do.... and it is that final push that makes up the last second between 1st and 5th. Obviously this is only my view on it.

....although I do sometimes wonder if it would have made much difference to my lap times if my bike was as quick as Alan or Kev down the straights.