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-   -   Keyless and what can be removed (/showthread.php?t=201774)

Jonzi 28-Apr-2013 13:14

Keyless and what can be removed
 
For those that have gone keyless. Help!!

I have bypassed the ignition key and want to know what else can be removed.

Does the general relay, fuse box and the other big black box thing can go

(Saying "big black box thing" probably means I should leave this alone)

Any pro tips greatly appreciated

Ghost 28-Apr-2013 13:38

You need to sit down with the wiring diagram Dan. Are all the lighting and indicator wires still in the loom?

chris.p 28-Apr-2013 13:50

Easier to bin the wireing loom, think it is only 4-5 wires that you need to run a class B, drop BimJob a message and ask how many & where they go.



Chris:burn:

Jonzi 28-Apr-2013 13:55

Everything is still there just cut off

I've got a Haynes and going through the wiring diagram on that

I think I was hasty in posting. So far it seems ok.

Jonzi 28-Apr-2013 13:59

How does the actual ignition unit come off?

There are some conical shaped nuts that hold it on which look like thy have a thread on the inside.

Do I need something special to remove that?

Jonzi 28-Apr-2013 17:02

Most of the wiring has now gone.

Can the neutral switch be removed from the crankcase or should that just be cut and left?

Same for the oil pressure switch, take it out or cut it off and tape up?

The ignition barrel is still on as I can't work out how the thing comes off.

There are two conical smooth bolts holding it on, they have a thread on the inside. Any ideas how I undo them?

chris.p 28-Apr-2013 17:13

Neutral switch can be cut, but try and leave the oil pressure light on, two reasons, first is the obvious one, incase you have an oil pressure problem, can save your engine, also by having it still on is to make sure that you know if some one has turned your ignition on or you have left it on.


Chris:burn:

skidlids 28-Apr-2013 21:41

I use an Easy out for removing the Ignition Switch bolts

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/26103...ff14=64&ff19=0

antonye 28-Apr-2013 22:15

1 Attachment(s)
Easiest way it to get a long bolt that is the same thread size as inside the cone (M6), and put a nut onto it. Wind the bolt (with nut) into the cone as far as you can then lock the bolt in place with the nut. Undo the bolt and it will bring the cone out with it!

Jonzi 06-May-2013 17:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by antonye
Easiest way it to get a long bolt that is the same thread size as inside the cone (M6), and put a nut onto it. Wind the bolt (with nut) into the cone as far as you can then lock the bolt in place with the nut. Undo the bolt and it will bring the cone out with it!


I think I am dumb.

I tried this but it didn't work. I did manage to bend a couple of bolts though.

I did exactly as you said except when I undid the bolt the bolt + the nut simply come out.

What am I doing wrong?

skidlids 06-May-2013 21:26

Chances are yours unlike the one in Antony's pic is loctited/thread locked in so its easier for the bolt and nut you are using comes out, this is why I use and Easy Out / Screw Extractor

Jonzi 06-May-2013 22:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by skidlids
Chances are yours unlike the one in Antony's pic is loctited/thread locked in so its easier for the bolt and nut you are using comes out, this is why I use and Easy Out / Screw Extractor


I am assuming this is like a drill bit?

I dont have power in my garage, so is there any other handtool i can get that can get these things out?

i might use a hammer.

skidlids 06-May-2013 23:17

No Dan
Its a hand tool, they normally fit into a tap wrench, but can be used with a good quality adjustable spanner as the ones I have have a a square end .
They are pretty much like a coarse thread left hand tap, lightly tap it into the end of the jammed bolt with a small hammer, put a spanner across the flats of the square end and turn anti clockwise, it will try and screw itself further into the cone but at some point the force required for it to go further in exceeds the force required to break the thread lock and starts unscrewing the stuck bolt. So No power required

I would recommend the tap wrench over a spanner
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engineers-...item3a7ef95c3b

antonye 07-May-2013 09:40

Try it again using two nuts on the inserted bolt and lock them together.

badgerpilot 08-May-2013 05:16

Also try and get a blowtorch on the jammed bolt, the heat will break up the hardened Loctite/threadlock and make it easier to get out.

Jonzi 08-May-2013 10:56

I bought the tools that Skidlids suggested.

Will take another bash at it this weekend.

If all else fails I am going to take a hammer to it.

coppersaucepipe 08-May-2013 17:34

If you're not going to be reattaching anything there, just drill the bolts out or angle grind them off. The only time you need to remove anything carefully, is if you need to refit it or something else in its place.

Jonzi 08-May-2013 17:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by coppersaucepipe
If you're not going to be reattaching anything there, just drill the bolts out or angle grind them off. The only time you need to remove anything carefully, is if you need to refit it or something else in its place.


No power at the garage and too far to push the bike back home (and I don't own a van or trailer, I hire each time)

coppersaucepipe 08-May-2013 22:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonzi
No power at the garage and too far to push the bike back home (and I don't own a van or trailer, I hire each time)


Time to consider one of these?

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-too...skuId=12910116

badgerpilot 09-May-2013 03:59

Or one of these, can get them £50 cheaper if you shop around:-

http://www.ukhs.tv/Generators_2/Gene...rt-Generator_2


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