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Reload this Page Rear clunking noise - 996 bip - (Superbike Rear Wheel remove / Install proceedure)
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Old 02-Aug-2006, 03:06 PM
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Question Rear clunking noise - 996 bip - (Superbike Rear Wheel remove / Install proceedure)

This is very strange...anyone else had it?

when the bike isnít running and is leant over on the left hand side (nearest the curb) when moved forwards or backwards i get a metal sounding clonk. When the bike is upright or leaning on the right hand side=nothing.

Wait it gets weirder

the clonk isnít set in one place. in other words move the bike forwards (again leaning over on the left) and wait for the clonk. then move it back a bit and move fowards again the same distance. Nothing. Move it a bit more...nothing. bit more again...clonk

it defiantly seems to be coming from the rear of the bike?

the chain seems ok. and doesnít touch anything
all the carbon bits have been removed
have removed the rear calliper and move the bike whilst friend holds the calliper
rear bearing on the wheel seems fine and feels like there is no signs of wear (using Renthal sprocket carrier and sprocketts)
on the abba frame stand (suspension not loaded)..nothing
on the paddock stand ...nothing

Mike at MDR who services it hasnít come across such a problem before, especially as the clonking noise doesnít have a pattern in relation to movement. Says its not the recall forged problem as i would know straight away But without going to town on it (stripping it down) he cant really tell what the problem is. (fair enough)

anyone had this one?
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Old 02-Aug-2006, 03:57 PM
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Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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Obvious signs would be swarf aroud the hub area if any backing out of cushes etc was occuring etc.

I would imagine its not too diffuclt to at least narrow it down, with a mate to push the bike along and you listening.

Could it be a bearing on the way out? Sticking when the weight of the bike is on one side but not the other??

I think you have answered your own question really...if you can't find out for sure visually, then it may need a strip down. Not a huge job, and will put your mind at rest.
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Old 21-Jan-2007, 12:32 PM
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james81273 james81273 is offline
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for what its worth about this one... the strange cluncking noise was a loose rear wheel not being put on correctly and the only thing keeping the nut from comming off was the circlip.. did 9 laps of brands indy like this.....i will not name anyone as it probally wasnt him but instead the tryre fitters he used

as you can imagine i was not impressed when i found out what the problem was.

never mind ..water under the bridge
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Old 21-Jan-2007, 01:07 PM
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Chaz Chaz is offline
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I would say it's the cush drive when they ware they come out of the back of the carrier & catch on the swinging arm.
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Old 21-Jan-2007, 01:20 PM
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james81273 james81273 is offline
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cheers chass...

if that was it my boob I had fitted a long time before the problem cam about a renthal carrier which i should have fixed these problems?

when it came to inspecting the rear wheel to see what the knocking noise was i managed to undo the rear wheel nut with my hands.. at which point i was glad my kids couldnt hear me!........ never trust a ****** TYRE FITTING SHOP ****** thats very very busy ...even if you do it yourself..check and check again.... mistakes happen to everyone ask tony blair about patricia hewitt for an example.
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Old 21-Jan-2007, 06:31 PM
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DSC Member Shazaam! Shazaam! is offline
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Superbike Wheel Removal/Install Procedures

Rear Wheel Installation

A Ducati tech bulletin and their web site specifies 176 Nm Ī 5% torque requirement for the rear wheel retaining nut (normal thread direction). This converts to 130 Ī 6 lb-ft. This value is based on using grease on the threads (this is not optional.) The manual calls for Shell Retinax HDX2, an automotive grease.

In general, a thread treated with either an anti-seize or a lubricant requires a lower torque value (than a higher-friction dry thread) to create the same tension in the fastener. So, if you have changed to a titanium nut, such that anti-seize is now needed to prevent galvanic corrosion, youíll need to torque the fastener to a approximately 10% lower value to avoid over-tensioning the fastener. A new torque wrench is probably accurate to Ī 3%.

When reinstalling, first make sure that the wheel is seated properly. Mount the wheel and tighten the nut to about 50 lb-ft. Then rotate the wheel and pound the side of the tire with the heel of your hand in several places around the circumference to seat it. Then tighten to about 80 lb-ft and repeat, applying the rear brake lever to keep the wheel from turning. Finally, tighten the nut to 124 lb-ft and check the retaining pin hole alignment. Torque again as high as 137 lb-ft to line-up the holes and insert the retaining pin.

If the nut is under-torqued it will allow the nut to loosen, allowing the wheel to rotate in its mount and be damaged by repeated acceleration/braking impact loads that will ovalize the four locating pins holes on the backside of the wheel. Damage to the axle spindle can also occur. Also, a loose nut will back-off till it's stopped by the retaining pin, then bend the pin and deform the nut. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.

DURING INSTALLATION, YOU SHOULD NEVER LOOSEN THE NUT TO INSERT THE PIN. The range of correct torque values for the nut is 124-136 lb-ft so the correct procedure is to torque to the lower value, check for hole alignment and torque up to the higher value if necessary to align the holes.

Note that if you are installing aftermarket wheels, a small variation in wheel/paint thickness may make it more difficult to apply both the correct torque and also get the correct hole alignment.

Here's the important part. Ride the bike and recheck the nut's tightness. It's not uncommon to see it loosening up just a hair after the initial tightening. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.


Rear Wheel Removal

You'll need a six-point 46mm (1-13/16-inch) socket and a torque wrench with a handle extension. Most sockets this size are 3/4-inch drives so you also may need a 3/4-to-1/2-inch drive adapter. A 12-point socket will work too, of course.

Check your socketís construction. You may need to machine down the hex end face of the socket if it has recessed flats. Otherwise, you'll only get partial engagement of the socket flats on the comparatively thin nut. There's high torque involved here so you'll want to anticipate slipping and damaging the nut.

The rear wheel is held on with a 46 mm nut cross-drilled to accept a safety retaining clip that is installed as a safety precaution to prevent the loss of the nut. If the nut was not torqued correctly when last installed, the nut may have loosened a bit and captured the pin. This will prevent the socket from being placed over the nut, so you may have to cut off or pry the pin out.

You can expect that the rear wheel retaining nut will be VERY difficult to remove, usually requiring the use of an impact driver (or a long handle extension) to get it off. Over time it seems to get tighter.

A good way to keep the wheel from turning while removing the nut is to have a helper apply the rear brake lever with a normal amount of force. Be careful, too much force on the lever can break the rear master cylinder bracket which is the pivot point for the rear brake pedal.


Front Wheel Removal

First take the big end nut off. Then you can loosen the axle clamp bolts on the forks.

There's a tool that fits inside the right hand end of the axle that comes in the tool kit. It looks like a short piece of tubing with a couple of holes in it and a couple of pins sticking out on opposite side.

Stick this in the right side of the axle and with a rod or screw driver through one of the holes wiggle and twist the axle out. The fit of the axle in the front wheel bearings is snug. It helps to support the weight of the wheel as you slide out the axle. If necessary, you can fabricate a dowel rod of wood or plastic to help tap the axle out from the left side.


Front Wheel Installation

If you donít follow the proper installation sequence, you can incorrectly align the front axle in the forks. Also, be particularly careful when you tighten the pinch bolts - the Ducati axle is thin-walled and will ovalize if these bolts are over-torqued.

You can use a dowel inserted from the left side to hold the wheel in position. Put anti-seize or grease on the axle and then insert it from the right side (of the bike). To avoid damaging the thin-walled axle, tap it in gently and rotate it using the special tool from your Ducati tool kit. Once it is in, line up the holes in the axle with the holes in the axle clamps so that the through-holes allow screwdriver access to the compression valve adjusters.

The common mistake made here is to just tighten everything up at this point. Instead, hereís the proper sequence to assure that the forks are aligned.

Temporally tighten-up the two RIGHT side axle clamp bolts so you can torque the axle nut.

Put on the (left side) 28mm axle nut and torque it (63Nm.)

Then torque the two LEFT side clamp bolts (19Nm.)

Now, put the brake calipers back on using the proper torque setting (43 Nm.)

Now, loosen the two RIGHT side clamp bolts.

Take the bike off the paddock stand, and bounce the suspension up and down till you are sure that the right side fork has moved to the proper (neutral) position along the axle. (It makes it easier to compress the suspension if you hold the front brake on when rocking the bike forward.)

Once this is done, torque the two RIGHT side clamp bolts to 19Nm, reconnect the speedometer cable, and youíre done.
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