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Old 24-Jul-2006, 02:57 PM
Maxypriest Maxypriest is offline
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Unhappy Oil temperature of between 120-130c - Supersport

My FCRd Superlight in 30C ambient temps on long fast ish trips is indicating an oil temperature of between 120-130c. In-fact this mornings trip, when I arrived at work at 900rpm tick-over and about 120c oil temp the oil light was beginning to flicker eek!!!

I have 3 questions.

1) 120-130C seams rather hot! Do I need a bigger oil cooler or is this ok?

2) Anyone experience of this?

3) Is this a sign that a re-build is imminent?

The engines done 20k and I have owned it since 12K and changed the oil every 3k religiously with R4. As it does use a bit of oil (no excessive) I guess that it had not been treated as well in its first 12K of life. (My 600SS DD race uses no oil and with 35k on the clock the oil light never comes on, even after a hot race it takes a few seconds to light up once the crank has stopped turning (touch wood)).

Thanking you all in advance!

Max
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Old 24-Jul-2006, 05:26 PM
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IainMac IainMac is offline
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If you getting oil light flicker then it could be your oil is too thin or your mains/oil pump are worn (both will drop oil pressure). suggest you drop the oil and try a decent full synt at 15w50 as the latter is a bit dearer to investigate /fix. The synt oil (use a proper full synth such as Motul or Silkolene ester base rather than a cracked mineral , it will say ester on the back in the blurb) should hold viscosity better in high temps.
Cant remember what my old SL ran at but missus mini cooper (proper brit ver) breaks 110 in hot conditions. PS there could many other issues but the oil drop is probably one of the cheapest and cant hurt. gud luck
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Old 24-Jul-2006, 08:35 PM
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Oil Temperatures

If the manufacturer supplies the engine with an oil cooler, it needs an oil cooler. Otherwise not, unless you have made significant power-related modifications. Air-cooled engines are designed to run hotter than water-cooled engines, but the rules for oil temperatures are the same for both engines. YOU may be uncomfortable at the higher engine temperatures but the engine has been designed with adequate materials and thermal expansion clearances to run just fine.

From the engine point-of-view, you should expect to see indicated oil temperatures between the gauge midpoint and three quarter mark with occasional excursions to full scale. Thats how the manufacturer selects the gauge mid-point. If the oil temperature is too cool the oil viscosity is higher so you will loose power due to pumping losses.

From the oil point-of-view, you need to maintain lubrication and a high enough viscosity when hot to produce an adequate oil pressure. If the oil temperature is too hot, the oil oxidizes and breaks-down more quickly.

Thats why you should run a synthetic oil, to give you a safety margin against oil breakdown. A regular oil will begin to lose its film strength at temperatures above 220F (105C), while most full-synthetic oils can be safely used at temperatures as high as 300F (150C) before lubrication-related damage becomes a concern.

As a rule-of-thumb your oil temperature should be kept below 240F if you want to change petroleum-based oil at the recommended intervals. For every ten degrees above 240F, cut your oil change interval in half.

Race car builders usually design for oil temperatures between 230F and 260F in order to get the best power. Above that range, engine reliability and oil life becomes a factor in racing.
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Old 25-Jul-2006, 10:13 AM
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My 900SL is the same on long trips. 120C is regular and needle in the last 1/4 of the dial. Once it reaches that temp it never seems to go back down very much regardless of how I ride. I've also been worried but the bike doesn't seem to perform any differently at that temparature.
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Old 25-Jul-2006, 10:27 AM
Maxypriest Maxypriest is offline
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Ziggi,

Mine does excatly that too. Can't get the temp out.

Ian/Shaz

I use Castrol R4, are the 15w50 Motul or Silkolene oils better suited for the ol'girl?

Max.
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Old 25-Jul-2006, 01:23 PM
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IainMac IainMac is offline
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Hmm is R4 10w40? and does it happen if the R4 is fresh in the sump or after its had a few k miles through it?
If you get low oil pressure regardless of oil age,i.e its conditions related then I would fill with a 15w50 (full synth) so see if the higher viscosity keeps the oil pressure up at idle and hot temps, tje full synth will delay viscosity loss over time.
I think Castrol use mineral base oils tweaked to be "synthetic". High end Silkolene or motul oils use a true ester base synthetic blend (check back of can and look for Ester base statement) these will hold viscosity far better under stress than a mineral or mineral based synth. Hope that helps

PS if you've still got Oil light flicker at idle with the oild change then get a new oil sender before you worry about worn out engine internals, they do fail with age etc.
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