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Old 01-May-2006, 12:15 PM
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B19PSK B19PSK is offline
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Battery Advice - Odyssey revisited

Went to start my beloved Duke yesterday and found the battery had given up. The battery is just under 4 years old now, always run on an Oxford optimiser (note we've a few bikes and had two of these burn out (or blow the thermal fuse) on the transformers primary.

Looking for a really good replacement...any ideas?
Make, price and where near Heathrow (TW14) I can get one.
I've heard stories of Knights batteries, but they appear only to sell a standard battery for this bike. 998S OEM was a GT12B-4. I've heard that a YT12B-BS is the same (Yamaha R6/R1)

Cheers

Paul
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Old 04-May-2006, 03:58 PM
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B19PSK B19PSK is offline
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More on the Battery saga.
I've decided to up the battery rating on my Ducati 998S May 02 model.

So far I've chosen a PC680 £90 from www.knightbatteries.com Price includes VAT and delivery (UK mainland only)

Voltage 12v Cranking Current 680Amps for 5 seconds Cold Cranking 210Amp estimated Capacity at 20 hour rate 19Ah Reserve capacity 28 minutes Terminals M5 bolt

PC680 Dimensions185mm Long 79mm Wide 170mm High Weight 6.1Kg
Standard Dimensions151mm Long 70mm Wide 130mm High
This is larger than standard, however I think I can make it fit.

Mk1 bracket will be aluminium, once this is correct I’m going to get a carbon fibre version made – cost circa £50
I’ll have it made with a nice carbon cover, so your bike still looks pretty with ½ its clothes off.

Many reasons for this project.
1. A Duke is an arse to start with a weak battery, especially a fuel injected one!! Fancy bumping a 998 in first?
2. The battery is constantly under drain due to the alarm system.
3. That poxy CPU saver function always cuts in before I’ve had time to put on my gloves and with my hands I can’t get to the key with gloves on.
4. I broke my plastic battery tray trying to remove the brass bolt. No it wasn’t corroded….it was locktight’d in by the factory or workshop!!!!!!!!!
5. I want a pretty cover to hide the + & - terminals and wires.
6. I want to save weight…………..rubbish at 18 ½ stone I can think of a another place to shed a few pounds.


Anyone else interested in this conversion let me know…..Anyone else done something similar?

Paul
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Old 04-May-2006, 05:16 PM
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DSC Member Shazaam! Shazaam! is offline
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I installed an Odyssey 680 in my 916 four years ago. Still going strong. Highly recommended. It's a little wider which requires that you shim it up and forward in the battery box in order to close the fairing.
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Old 04-May-2006, 07:48 PM
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david.hicks david.hicks is offline
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I've fitted an Odyssey on my 996 SPS - total confidence ever since.
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Old 05-May-2006, 05:52 AM
KeefyB KeefyB is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by B19PSK
Mk1 bracket will be aluminium, once this is correct I’m going to get a carbon fibre version made – cost circa £50
I’ll have it made with a nice carbon cover, so your bike still looks pretty with ½ its clothes off.
Just mind the carbon does'nt touch the battery terminals.
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Old 05-May-2006, 06:40 PM
aka.eric aka.eric is offline
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Odyssey PC680 £63.25 including VAT.
Cheshire Batteries Ltd. Tel 01270 255493
www.cheshirebatteries.co.uk
Collected mine so dont know about P+P.
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Old 05-May-2006, 11:03 PM
gasmanrus gasmanrus is offline
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[quote]Originally posted by B19PSK
More on the Battery saga.
1. A Duke is an arse to start with a weak battery, especially a fuel injected one!! Fancy bumping a 998 in first?


i find second gear is better for the old bump start
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Old 06-May-2006, 01:32 AM
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B19PSK B19PSK is offline
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Doh....£90 paid, but I got free sunglasses!
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Old 07-May-2006, 02:43 PM
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B19PSK B19PSK is offline
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Upgrading to Odessy PC680 Battery on 998S / 2002

So this is how it went.

Standard battery, nearly 4 years old, now not holding a charge, even when on the optimiser. Note the only indication the Oxford gave was that it wasn’t fully charged (last Green light not on) despite being connected for 4 days.

Purchased a PC680 from Knights Batteries, see above…paid too much £90?

Tools required
8 & 10mm spanners /sockets
Allen key to match new battery studs
Hot air gun
Small flat blade screwdriver
Hack saw
Box cutter

1. Remove off side faring panel.
2. Put alarm into service mode.
3. Disconnected Neg (Black) terminal.
4. Disconnected Pos (Red) terminal.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE EARTH CONNECTION FIRST AND RECONNECT LAST – THEN IF A SPANNER TOUCHES THE BATTERY WON’T BLOW UP!
5. Unclamp battery - mines broken off!
6. Remove three battery tray retaining bolts (12, 10 and 6 O’clock positions, the 6 O’clock bolt is hidden behind the three relays in the rubber block beneath the tray.
7. Remove the igniters pack to the left of the tray (two bolts)
8. Using a small screwdriver, unlock each connector and carefully remove the wires from the various electrical modules.
9. The tray should now be free.
10. Remove the rubber inner tray – this is no longer required nor will it fit.
11. Hacksaw off the right hand end of the tray and trim with a box cutter to remove any swarf.
12. Carefully hold the tray upright (a friend is helpful here) and heat the bottom of the trays edge and left hand side to soften the plastic.
13. Carefully insert the PC680 Battery in the tray ensuring it is fully home and push hard to the left.
14. DON’T HEAT THE BATTERY!!
15. Refit the modified tray using a locking compound on the threads.
16. Refit all the connectors
17. Using the old battery adapter plate turn it upside down and attach it to the Pos terminal, this will allow the start motor relay wire to reach.
18. Connect the other heavy Pos wire directly to the PC680.
19. Connect the Neg wires
20. Test then refit the side panel

I haven’t found a good way to secure the battery, but given it is wedged in so tight against the right hand coil it aint going up, it may go forward under heavy braking, so I need to fabricate a battery retaining bracket.

As every ford owner knows (or at least the older ones) an insecure battery is an MOT failure.

Hope this helps?

Cheers

Paul
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