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Old 21-Nov-2003, 02:31 PM
ben998 ben998 is offline
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Front sprocket torque setting

Im swopping the front sprocket on my 998 to a 14T this weekend (supplied by Neil at Cornerspeed, great service - highly recommended) and although I haven't investigated the sprocket assembly, Im assuming there is going to be a big nut holding it on

If so, does anyone know the torque setting for it?

cheers,
Ben
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Old 21-Nov-2003, 03:32 PM
DAVE HARRIS DAVE HARRIS is offline
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The front sprocket is retained with a splined plate with 2 bolts locating the plate to the sprocket. to remove the old sprocket remove the cover, remove clutch slave cylinder carefully! Mark the rear hub eccentric with tippex etc and loosen chain fully by rotating rear hub to give maximum play in the chain, remove 2 bolts holding locking plate to sprocket, twist locking plate in the groove its in and pull off the splines, hook chain off sprocket, remove sprocket.
You may have to take the chain off the rear sprocket first to get enough room to pull the front sprocket off.
Then fit the new sprocket, refit the locking plate and I suggest loctite for the 2 bolts and when back together reset the chain adjustment making sure the eccentric in aproximately the same place as it was before you slackended the chain,(it will upset the handling if you get the eccentic in the wrong place!!)

dave
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Old 21-Nov-2003, 03:42 PM
ben998 ben998 is offline
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Thanks Dave,
I'll let you know how I got on with the job on Monday.

cheers,
Ben
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Old 21-Nov-2003, 04:11 PM
neil748r neil748r is offline
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Ben,

Torque settings as follows:

2 little bolts for front sprocket retaining plate - 6Nm

2 pinch bolts for rear eccentric - 31Nm

Also, if you are fitting a smaller front sprocket then the eccentric can't be returned to its original position or your chain will be too slack! Chain should be adjusted so that you have 25mm free play (in the vertical plane) at the mid point of the swingarm.

The other point to note is that by moving the eccentric for correct chain adjustment you are also altering the rear ride height.

If you want to do it right, before you slacken anything off, measure from the centre of the back axle to a reference point of your choice on the subframe (I'm assuming you don't have the factory ride height datum tool). Write this figure down! Now slacken everything off and do your sprocket change etc. Once you have it all back together and you've adjusted your chain correctly you will then have to lengthen or shorten the ride height adjuster to get the figure you previously noted. To adjust, slacken the lock nuts at both ends of the adjuster rod and then turn adjuster rod to raise or lower ride height. Bear in mind that the bottom end of the ride height adjuster is reverse thread!

If that doesn't make sense or you want more info, just drop me a line.

Hope this helps,

Neil.

[Edited on 21-11-2003 by neil748r]
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Old 21-Nov-2003, 07:04 PM
Totto Totto is offline
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Downlaod the 998 manual from here

http://www.totto.plus.com/Ducati manual.rar

20something meg !!!

[Edited on 21-11-2003 by Totto]
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Old 21-Nov-2003, 07:29 PM
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Rattler Rattler is offline
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downloaded it, how do I open it?

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Old 22-Nov-2003, 09:48 AM
DAVE HARRIS DAVE HARRIS is offline
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Sorry, forgot the torque settings. Becouse I run a garage apart from critical bolts like head bolts I do it by feel

dave
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Old 22-Nov-2003, 04:48 PM
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the phantom pieman the phantom pieman is offline
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I don't think the 998 ( at least my 998s) has the two bolt plate assembly. It is held in place via a lock washer instead ....

am yet to do mine - the clutch slave assemby comes of in one piece, or is it a rebuilding job once you've done it?
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Old 23-Nov-2003, 12:11 AM
ben998 ben998 is offline
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Did it today - the 998 has got one big nut held in place by a bent over lock washer. Its impossible (or I didnt work out how to to do it) to remove the front sprocket without removing the clutch slave cylinder. Three bolts and that comes off easy enough. There is an o ring on the back of the housing that you have to be careful when reassembly, but it just comes off and goes on again, no rebuild or anything needed.
Put it all back together again but haven't had time for a play today, if not tomorrow definately on the way to work on Monday

cheers,
Ben
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Old 24-Nov-2003, 08:46 AM
ben998 ben998 is offline
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DO IT NOW

Rode the bike in to work this morning, and its like a different bike to ride. The first noticeable benefit is low speed work and pulling away. The whole process is definately smoother. The bike will now trickle along in first gear with minimal revs, no clutch banging (!) or manual clutch slipping required. Ideal for town work.
Acceleration is better, although with it still being wet and lots of traffic I wasn't able to do any proper 1st/2nd gear full on acceleration, but still felt a bit quicker.
Top gear work, at about 70/80 is much easier as well. The bike feels much more responsive when I open the throttle to get a move on ie no need to change down to 5th to five instant drive - much better.
Overall its definately a worthwhile mod. The sprocket doesn't cost much and it only takes an hour to do, if that. I can post some more detailed step by step instructions about how I did it if anyone is interested or wants to do it but is feeling hesitant.

cheers,
Ben
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