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Old 24-Mar-2004, 13:33
Desmondo Desmondo is offline
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Simple engine work to increase power?

Hi guys, bike is going in for a service soon before I start to hit the track for the year. Whilst it's in there in bits, is there anything that can be done to improve power, without spending too much?

I was also thinking of putting in a lighter flywheel at the same time (I know this won't affect power), any opinions on this?

It's a 996 Bip BTW.
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 14:11
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nelly nelly is offline
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I rate a lightened flywheel as one of the best mods you can do for the money. As you say, doesn't make any more power but it makes the engine a lot livelier and improves the engine braking.

If the motor is going to be taken down as far as having the heads off, then setting the squish would be worthwhile to. The standard motors seem to run a fair bit and this'll make the "burn" better and give you a little more compression.
You could also look at having the cams dialled in to. Usually worth a couple of bhp.
The last thing is maybe the FIM eprom that runs a single injector rather than the twin setup. Didn't get a chance to ride it but Dibbles bike dialled in really well and felt very nice on the throttle. The flywheel would probably work well with this option to.
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 14:15
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 14:42
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Cleaning it and shaking the gravel out of the fairing would be a good start, mate....

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Old 24-Mar-2004, 14:50
Dibble
 
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it did indeed Nelly .... and its running beautifullw ... its off for a dyno run on Saturday so will let you know the outcome ....
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 16:25
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DSC Member Shazaam! Shazaam! is offline
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The Best Performance Modification You Can Make

You can increase acceleration by increasing engine power, but you can increase acceleration, improve handling, and improve braking by reducing weight. Further, when you reduce the weight of rotating components you get an additional acceleration benefit from reducing rotational inertia and you get quicker steering transitions from reduction in gyroscopic forces.

The crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods, transmission gears, drive chain and sprockets, wheels and tires, clutch and flywheel are all obvious candidates.

If every modification to reduce weight was just a matter of using lighter materials then the path to better performance would be simple - just replace every part with any lighter aftermarket parts you can afford.

The problem is, some modifications have a downside beyond their expense. A lightened flywheel, for example, is one modification to a street bike that will have more negative, than positive effects. Here’s why.

An engine makes the least torque at idle and low rpm, especially when cold (when there are more misfires.) So when you release your clutch a little too fast, the engine torque is too small to overcome the bike's inertia, and it stalls. If you add a flywheel, the stored momentum augments the engine's torque allowing you to use a lower rpm starting-off. Without a flywheel you'd need a higher idle speed, or constantly need to start-off at a higher rpm in order to raise the engine torque output enough to avoid stalling the engine. Obviously on a track you don’t do a lot of starting-off so a light flywheel isn’t a problem.

As you ride at lower rpm in traffic, you are constantly changing between acceleration and deceleration. Engine torque levels are still fairly low at these speeds, so slack in the drive train needs to be smoothed-out with a flywheel. Otherwise, on-off throttle transitions have a jerky effect, giving a less comfortable ride and causing you to use smaller throttle inputs (which is not always easy to do, but you can get used to it.)

At higher speeds, a flywheel slows the rate at which an engine rpm changes, so cracking the throttle open or closed results in a smoother transition in torque being applied to the drive train and tires. Again, without a flywheel, more careful throttle transitions are needed (and prudent.) Since the key to faster track times is reduced wheel spin, a light flywheel actually works against you by making it more difficult to modulate wheel spin, even though it helps lap times somewhat by producing more acceleration in the straights.

So in effect, a flywheel slows an engine's ability to change rpm producing drive train smoothness and drivability. It also reduces the engine's ability to match it's rpm with the drive train's rpm making it more difficult to downshift without producing wheel-hop.

And, when you miss a shift you’ll be glad you have one.

Granted, when you remove weight from the flywheel (and the slower-spinning clutch) the engine is able to more quickly spin-up just like you have more horsepower.

But only in neutral ...

In any other gear, there’s little benefit at all because the overall weight of the bike and rider completely overwhelms any reduction of rotational inertia produced by a lighter flywheel. A two pound lighter flywheel on a 600 pound bike-plus-rider will accelerate only 0.3% faster. F=ma.

Of course every 0.3% helps a racebike. When you reduce weight you’ll get faster acceleration, and faster lap times - IF - you can modulate your wheel spin driving out of corners. Factory racebikes make so much power, for example, that transmitting the power to the road effectively becomes the limiting factor - so heavier flywheels actually become a benefit.

Lightweight Wheels Instead

Except for the tendency to promote smoother shifts, the ability of a light flywheel to spin-up and spin-down is not a performance improvement.

If you really want improved performance, improve the ability of the bike’s wheels to spin-up and spin-down faster.

Lightweight wheels don't have the stalling and drivability drawbacks of a lighter flywheel. Also, since the wheels have a much greater rotational inertia than a flywheel, weight reduction here results in a much greater improvement in acceleration (and braking) with an added benefit of reduced gyroscopic forces and unsprung weight for improved handling. Lighter front rotors have a similar benefit. There’s even a significant difference in tire weights between brands to consider.
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 18:07
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shazaam!
Also, since the wheels have a much greater rotational inertia than a flywheel, weight reduction here results in a much greater improvement in acceleration (and braking) with an added benefit of reduced gyroscopic forces and unsprung weight for improved handling. Lighter front rotors have a similar benefit. There’s even a significant difference in tire weights between brands to consider.

Other than proper suspension setup this is the way to go on almost any bike you care to name. Sprung to Unsprung ratio is so important to how a bike handles Anybody who is after a performance improvement and is still on original 3 spoke wheels should consider upgrading to newer lighter wheels.

Bike Tuning
Suspension
unsprung mass
Blueprinting
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 18:42
Bungi Bungi is offline
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further considerations in improving handaling may be approached through moving the centre of gravity forward.

through fitting a longer swining arm and offset yolks, this might seem extreem and expensive but they can be sourced second hand occasionally for around £1500 or less.

some say (I personally do not know) this modification gives more marked improvment to handaling than fitting mag wheels.

Mag wheels however can generally be obtained for half this price, but you do need to be carefull when purchasing second hand mags they they are in a good condition.
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Old 24-Mar-2004, 23:32
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I will soon let you know from a personal point of view as the Ducati slowly going together in my backroom, has the longer Mag arm, different offset mag yokes and mag wheels all linked by properly sorted suspension.
Not done for looks but because I know it works.
Bikes intended for superbike racing by Ducati came with these parts as standard. Also I have friends that race bikes with this setup, the CSC Ducati won all of the SoT races at Pembrey last weekend at the North Glos club race and the Pembrey out right lap record now held by Phil Bevan was also set on a bike with this setup, although both Phils and Steve's bikes run the 16.5" rims.
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Old 25-Mar-2004, 00:02
Totto Totto is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by skidlids
I will soon let you know from a personal point of view as the Ducati slowly going together in my backroom, has the longer Mag arm, different offset mag yokes and mag wheels all linked by properly sorted suspension.
Not done for looks but because I know it works.
.

As well as the ZX400 , Do you ever sleep ??????????:P
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