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Old 25-Jul-2004, 19:04
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mike mike is offline
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rear brake

Bled my rear brake today which had become useless....is there a better way? Not sure even now if all the air is out with the bleed nipple on the bottom !

Mike
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Old 26-Jul-2004, 00:53
Mr_S Mr_S is offline
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I've got one of these

http://www.speedbleeder.com

fitted to each caliper now, makes bleeding a breeze

But for the rear, I also unbolt the caliper from it's mount and move it to the top of the disc, so that the pads still press against the disc but the nipple is then the highest point of the system. Leave it for 5 mins or so for the bubbles to rise, bleed the system, then put the caliper back in it's correct position.

[Edited on 25-7-2004 by Mr_S]
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Old 26-Jul-2004, 17:58
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mike mike is offline
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Thanks , i hadn't thought of sliding the caliper round to the top of the disc That should work

Mick
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Old 28-Jul-2004, 20:51
MartinK MartinK is offline
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I think bleeding thr rear is only a temporary repair though. I really struggled with my SPS.... I could get a perfect pedal for a couple of weeks & then back to spongy. I gave in & bought a new genuine master cylinder & guess what ........... exactly the same.
On my 998 (which has 50mm pipes) it was even worse ......... I think the problem is heat transfer from the exhausts to the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes through,using the technique described above, and with good quality fluid. I used Castrol Response dot4 but I am sure that any dot4 will be as good. I then wrapped the master cylinder in heat resistant aluminium cloth.
It is a bit early to say this is the definitive answer, but 3 months later it is still OK.
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Old 28-Jul-2004, 21:15
marksduc748 marksduc748 is offline
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DOT 6 and I swear by it. I had the same go out for a thrash and I could get it so I lost the rear brake all together but since I bled it and used DOT 6 its been ok. demon tweeks sell it and its a little dearer.
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Old 29-Jul-2004, 00:29
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mike mike is offline
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I have never had the trouble before...owned a 748 for three years and had the 996 for two years..but fitted a 50mm half system recently so maybe heat has something to do with it ?

Mike
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Old 01-Aug-2004, 14:32
moto748 moto748 is offline
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Something was suggested to me the other day which I think would help.
After you've bled the brake (preferably using a vacuum bleeder or similar, and with the caliper unit unit re-positioned as mentioned above), jam a screwdriver or allen key in the pedal assembly to leave the brake "on" overnight. And keep in the habit of doing this when the bike's not in use.

And yes, I know such measures *shouldn't* be necessary, but still...
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Old 02-Aug-2004, 13:58
mike916 mike916 is offline
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Mood: Neutral - but only maybe. 1994 Duc 916S1, 2006 Duc Sportclassic 1000 Sport
I've never yet come across a 9*6 with a brilliant back brake. I think it is a case of get used to it as it is - it's not like it's essential anyway, read Foggys autobiography and he says he never ever used his.

On mine I've fitted new HH sintered pads, Goodrich brake line and use DoT 6 fluid and it's still only a fraction better than useless when on the move. But it's still good enough to hold the back wheel when doing the clutch centre nut.

[Edited on 2-8-2004 by mike916]
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