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Old 08-Nov-2005, 13:00   #11
nelly nelly is offline
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You may find that most of the sockets for the rear wheel nuts are 3/4" drive, so you'll need a 1/2" adapter.
I'd never go without securing the clips on the nuts with a tie or lockwire. They do come off and the nuts can come loose!!
The screen screws are T7. Really obscure size. There's usually some drivers on eBay, or you can get them from RS or other electrical suppliers.
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Old 08-Nov-2005, 14:03   #12
moto748 moto748 is offline
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Never mind all that!

Just check yer rectifier wiring!
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Old 08-Nov-2005, 14:20   #13
aka.eric aka.eric is offline
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A 46mm socket and 1/2" adapter is expensive,unless you have a 3/4" torque wrench.Halfords sell a 1 13/16 "hub"socket in 1/2" thats alot cheaper,worked for me.
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Old 08-Nov-2005, 14:37   #14
multi600 multi600 is offline
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I bought a T7 from Maplins and it did not fit it just spun inside the fastner and mashed it. I bought one on e bay for £5 and although it claimed to be the same size it works a treat. But do check your rectifier wiring mine has thrown it's hand in 2,000 miles after I bought it. I am now trying to get it sorted for Cadwell this weekend.
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Old 08-Nov-2005, 14:54   #15
loverobot loverobot is offline
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please expand re rectfier - thought it was changed in my2000?
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Old 08-Nov-2005, 16:40   #16
Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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The problem still exists with the wiring from the cover on the other side (where the stator is) to the regulator connecting block (the white connector behind the metal back plate).

The wire used essentially is not upto carrying the maximum loads experienced, and as a result, over time it/the covering degrades causing problems that oftenm go unseen.

Check the connecting block (with the two yelow wires going into it), take it apart and look inside of it, and then check the wiring that goes from it back across the bike to the other side of the engine casing.

It may look OK, but many people cut this wiring out and replace it with thicker guage stuff, and better 30A connectors.

Makes sense to do it as a bit of insurance, and isn't a big deal
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Old 09-Nov-2005, 13:46   #17
Clippy Clippy is offline
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Pirelli tyre pressures - I run 32psi front (2.2 bar) and 36psi rear (2.4 bar) on Diablo Corsas as recommended by Pirelli.

Giles
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Old 09-Nov-2005, 14:06   #18
spinoli1 spinoli1 is offline
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Re: The 46mm nut for the rear wheel.

This can be a bitch to undo. I have broken 2 ratchets, 2 tommy bars and 2 standard 1/2 inch breaker bars trying this.

Get a good 1/2 inch breaker bar at least 2 foot long (I bought a 3/4 inch monster), and always grease the threads thoroughly when re-installing.

Spinoli
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Old 09-Nov-2005, 15:50   #19
loverobot loverobot is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by spinoli1
Re: The 46mm nut for the rear wheel.

This can be a bitch to undo. I have broken 2 ratchets, 2 tommy bars and 2 standard 1/2 inch breaker bars trying this.

Get a good 1/2 inch breaker bar at least 2 foot long (I bought a 3/4 inch monster), and always grease the threads thoroughly when re-installing.

Spinoli

Wow! grazed knuckles i guess then!
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Old 09-Nov-2005, 16:45   #20
Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by spinoli1
Re: The 46mm nut for the rear wheel.

This can be a bitch to undo. I have broken 2 ratchets, 2 tommy bars and 2 standard 1/2 inch breaker bars trying this.

Get a good 1/2 inch breaker bar at least 2 foot long (I bought a 3/4 inch monster), and always grease the threads thoroughly when re-installing.

Spinoli

Or just take the socket and your bike to your nearest tyre dealer and get them to just loosen it with an air gun, then just nip it back up and pootle home.
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