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  #11  
Old 16-Apr-2006, 08:23
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keefer keefer is offline
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Mood: Found a CR250. Let the bone braking begin
Stu aren't you in the wrong thread ?
any way looks like I will see you there.
just sipping on a large coffee now.
weather looks good.
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  #12  
Old 16-Apr-2006, 12:22
moto748 moto748 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by nelly
Take the rear wheel off. Remove the rear caliper and sit it on the top of the disc. This will put the bleed nipple at the top of the system.
The bleed as normal. It'll take some pumping at first, but once the fluid starts to flow, it'll come good...............


I'm not one to argue with the experts, but why is it necessary/desirable to remove the wheel? I just unbolt the calliper and hook it over the pillion footrest; keeps it nice and high. Can do that with the wheel in place, though.
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  #13  
Old 17-Apr-2006, 17:41
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loverobot loverobot is offline
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is there any trick to bleeding the front brake and the clutch side of things?
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  #14  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 16:54
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i guess not then ! lol
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  #15  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 18:58
Henners Henners is offline
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Sorry mate ... still trying to bleed the bleeder

If some kind soul has fitted a bleed point at the handlebar for either the front brake or clutch then the job is dead easy. If they haven't as is the case on the clutch side of my 996 - protect the area with kitchen towel to catch any drips, pull the clutch lever right in and gently release the brake line connecting bolt to let any trapped air out, nipping it up straight away before letting the lever back out again.

Now back to that soddin' rear brake of mine. I wouldn't mind if I knew it would be any use when fixed, it's that you can't get through a MOT or change the back wheel without the little F@*$~#!
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  #16  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 19:05
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Quote:
Originally posted by Henners
Sorry mate ... still trying to bleed the bleeder

If some kind soul has fitted a bleed point at the handlebar for either the front brake or clutch then the job is dead easy. If they haven't as is the case on the clutch side of my 996 - protect the area with kitchen towel to catch any drips, pull the clutch lever right in and gently release the brake line connecting bolt to let any trapped air out, nipping it up straight away before letting the lever back out again.

Now back to that soddin' rear brake of mine. I wouldn't mind if I knew it would be any use when fixed, it's that you can't get through a MOT or change the back wheel without the little F@*$~#!

Call another meeting! Someones got to do the right thing.............and blame someone else for this!
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  #17  
Old 20-Apr-2006, 21:09
Henners Henners is offline
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Well, it gets worse

Stu's mate Kevin called round tonight and we spent 2 hours with pumps and all sorts of special tools trying to get the back brake bled and ... nothing This guy is a brake specialist and even he's stumped. Current theory is that something is amiss in the master cylinder but so far we haven't found it. Will keep on looking ...

Bugga
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  #18  
Old 20-Apr-2006, 21:19
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andyb andyb is offline
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Mood: Has change happened...must of missed it!
doesnt happen on a 999...............
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  #19  
Old 20-Apr-2006, 21:34
Henners Henners is offline
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What doesn't happen on a 999?

Pride of ownership perchance :P
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  #20  
Old 13-May-2006, 13:29
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did you sort this ?

i am having a similar problem
is on my 748
i thought i had sussed it but the rear brake locked on
is this because there was not enough clearance or is it likely because of ana ir bubble that expanded?

when i pump the pedal and bleed there are no air bubbles??
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