Registered Forum User
Mille
Bikes: 996 sps foggy, 2001 r6, 1098S, s1000rr, Panigale 1199S
Posts: 248
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: newcastle
Mood: on the back wheel !!
some excellent answers from you all..
1. yes, generally dry, but some manufacturers even state values with certain lubricants, like copperslip, which brings the torque value down. But remember that approx 60% of the torquieng effort is used in friction, ie you have to overcome this to obtain the correct value.
Correction factors are also applied in torque tables for dry bolts, generally 90% of lubed bolts.
2. Thats right, you are actually stretching the bolt within its elastic range, going too far causes it shear (actually waisting occurs around the head of the bolt, before it gives way)
3. Stainless bolts require a lower value than carbon / steel fasteners, otherwise they will become damaged / sheared. As a matter of interest, if you look at the head of a stainless bolt you may see A2 or A4, these relating to the quality of the fastener...A4 being a better grade
4. Different grade fasteners require different values to bring them into an equivalent elastic area on the youngs modulus of elasticity graph...ie to obtain the required clamping force as you rightly say.
5. Generally you must hold the wrench on the hand grip, in order to achieve the correct radial distance from the centre of the fastener...Ive seen people hold it half way down and sweat their bollox off trying to get the wrench to 'click'.
Take a look at some good quality fasteners, and you'll see a number of marking on the head...these relate to the grade of bolt, say 8.8 for high tensile. There may even be 3 'slashes' or 6 'slashes', which signifys an SAE grade bolt (society of automotive engineers).
What does amaze me is hearing people in bike shops asking for anodised bolts for their brake calipers !