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Old 25-May-2004, 00:39   #1
Fordie Fordie is offline
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Help! 2nd time in a month
Rode up to BMF no problemo (60 miles) On return ,after 10 miles rear brake caliper burns out for the second time . All I felt was a little lose of power and I knew from last time things were going the same way. Pulled over to find pads completely gone and discs blued. Manages to split caliper remove metal discs and proceed on journey . Anyone got any ideas. I confess that i did adjust the piston, as before the bike went through the MOT and nearly failed on the rear brake . I had put a new caliper complete, plus new rear master cylinder on a few weeks previously. 4D
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Old 25-May-2004, 01:30   #2
DSC Region Organiser skidlids skidlids is offline
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How much clearance have you got between the activating rod connected to the brake pedal and the piston in the mastercylinder, also have you got a rear brake pedal return spring fitted.
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Old 25-May-2004, 19:43   #3
DSC Member Jools Jools is offline
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On the ST (and maybe all Dukes) there's a screw insert on the front brake and clutch levers. It looks for all the world as if it's purpose is to adjust the span, but I know that if you dick around with it, the master cylinder piston doesn't come back far enough to let the fluid return when you let the brake off. That's in laymans terms, it may not be what really happens but the result is that the brakes tend to 'pump up' until they lock on.

I reckon that the rear master cylinder must work the same way? If any adjustment is stopping it return properly, the rear brake is going to drag pretty badly. If you think about it, brakes are more powerful than the engine, because you can slow down quicker than you can accelerate, and they do it all by using friction to turn the energy of a rolling bike into heat. That's a lot of heat. It wouldn't take much of a dragging brake at a constant 80mph to make the brakes red hot, wear down the pads and start weld metal to metal
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Old 25-May-2004, 21:22   #4
KeefyB KeefyB is offline
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I think Jools is right,it sounds like you went too far when you adjusted the "slack" out of the lever.
I nearly did the same thing on the MTS.I adjusted the lever to where I wanted it but when I spun the rear wheel I could hear and feel the brake dragging on the disc.Best back it off then!
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Old 25-May-2004, 21:32   #5
Glyn Glyn is offline
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pete how many times have i got to say it

IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW IT WORKS LEAVE IT ALONE

saying that at least its a good reason to get the ss back out for a spin.every cloud has a etc ect tce.....

give us a bell if you need us to pick up anything from riverside
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Old 25-May-2004, 23:32   #6
Fordie Fordie is offline
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Thanks lads, Points taken,Hav'nt had much time to look at it ,but i thing maybe me adjusting the piston could be the way to go . It make sense. The return spring looks OK, Kev Ill have to fit another one and screw in the piston to its original position. Must admit the rear brake did work a treat though and thats a first. Regards 4D
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Old 26-May-2004, 00:02   #7
saj288 saj288 is offline
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4D you have U2U

SAJ
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Old 26-May-2004, 10:11   #8
Chaz Chaz is offline
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you will find that it is you just resting your foot on the brake leaver put a bit more free play in problem solved, i burned my pads out twice befor i found out.

Chass
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Old 26-May-2004, 10:33   #9
WeeJohnyB WeeJohnyB is offline
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Chass...I was wondering about that, but the brake light would be on and having followed Fordie for many a country mile, that's not the case.

Fordie, hope you sort it mate.....try removing the pads and not putting htem back in never use the thing anyway.

WeeJohnyB
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