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Ducati Meccanica
Posts: 2,263
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wimbourne, Dorset
Mood: I'm so happyyyyyyyyyyyy
Lilly,
Here is a post that Larry Kelly posted on another board. I hope he doesn't mind me passing it on here.
Rgds,
Rob
larry wrote:
Here are the questions you need to ask:
Has the rear wheel spindle been inspected?
1994-1998 models were recalled so Ducati could inspect for possible cracks present on the rear wheel spindle. The concern was that this condition could cause the spindle to fail, causing a loss of control of the motorcycle and increasing the risk of a crash. Ducati sent ultrasonic inspection equipment to their dealers who were authorized to replace spindles if necessary.
I'm not aware of any spindles that were actually replaced during this recall. There's been speculation that improper tightening of the nut on the rear wheel caused wheel wobble, that in turn caused spindle cracks on an early machine (owned by a lawyer as I recall). I mention this because if you change your wheel yourself, there are safety consequences if you don't retighten it properly. Always recheck tightness after you've ridden a few miles.
Has the alternator wiring been inspected and/or replaced?
The wiring and in-line connectors between the alternator and the regulator/rectifier (on all model years) overheat because they have to pass over 30 amps continuously. The solution is to replace the wires with a larger gauge and eliminate the in-line connectors. Do it before you have problems.
When was the last time the cam timing belts were replaced?
It's critical that the cam belts be replaced every 12,000 miles to avoid potentially catastrophic engine damage. Ducati uses smaller diameter pulleys that cause the belt to turn tighter corners than the larger pulleys used in automobile engines. Ducati also uses a small diameter back-side belt-tensioning idler pulley arrangement that causes the belt to flex back in the opposite direction on each revolution. This back-and-forth belt flexing promotes premature fatigue failure. The original drive belt material often failed before the first recommended 6,000 mile replacement interval so Ducati now uses a Kevlar fiber reinforced belt.
Have the fuel lines been replaced?
Ducati fuel injection uses a high pressure fuel pump and in-tank fuel line failures are common if the recommendation to replace fuel hoses every two years is not followed.
When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?
A clogged fuel filter causes the high pressure fuel pump to draw much higher currents that are prime contributors to regulator failures.
Has the connection to the starter motor been inspected?
The rubber boot that covers the connection to the starter motor catches and holds water that corrodes the terminal making it crank hard or fail to start. Cover the connection with dielectric grease and check it seasonally.
Were the cams pulled at the last valve clearance check to inspect for the chrome plating flaking off.
This is a major unresolved design problem that affects all model years. The chrome plating on the rocker arms flake off and damage the cam lobes. A time-consuming removal of the camshafts is mandatory to determine the full extent of the condition of the rocker arms so ANY PURCHASE SHOULD BE PREDICATED ON AN ACCEPTABLE INSPECTION. Depending on the circumstances, Ducati may elect to replace defective parts on out-of-warranty bikes but the owner will have to pay the labor costs.
In addition, these are some design deficiencies and common problems that you should also be aware of:
In-Line Fuses. There's been reports of corrosion developing at connections at in-line fuses causing a high resistance to develop that overheats the wiring and fuse holder causing a partial meltdown and/or loss of continuity. The engine management relay fuses (one 15A, one 15A and one 20A, or one 5A and one 20A fuse depending on the model and
year) located underneath the seat. Failure can cause your bike to stop running without warning. A clue is that the fuel pump will not run when you turn on the ignition and toggle the handlebar switch to RUN. The 30A fuse (or 40A on later models) between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. Failure can prevent charging and eventually drain the battery during a long ride. A clue is that the charge warning light (pre-1999 models)will come on.
Starter Relay Connection. The electrical connector that goes to the starter relay is often a poor fit and can cause inability to start for no apparent reason. Zip-tie it tight.
Coolant Expansion Tank. The tank sees repeated thermal cycling and it cracks at a high stress point (underneath the ignition key) where the shape abruptly transitions from horizontal to vertical. So watch for small coolant droplets on the inside of your windscreen. Check that your dealer keeps replacements in stock or pick up a spare on eBay. When you replace it, make sure that the mounting holes allow for some thermal expansion.
Flywheel Retaining Nut. Problems develop when this retaining nut is removed. They may loosen and cause extensive damage and they are difficult to re-install reliably.
Cush Drive. These occasionally are reported to back-out and cause damage to the swingarm.
Crankshaft Oil Galley Plug. Check your oil screen at each oil change for aluminum fingernail clipping size particles. Early-year bikes had problems with this plug backing-out. If not caught in time, the plug will come out and you'll get a catastrophic loss of lubrication. In 2001, the aluminum oil galley plug was replaced with a steel plug.
Oil Pressure Sending Unit. These parts are unreliable. However, if your oil pressure light comes on don't run the engine until you diagnose the problem.
Low Fuel Sending Unit. This part is unreliable. Get in the habit of resetting your odometer when refueling.
Clutch Slave Leaks. Watch your reservoir fluid level. There are aftermarket replacements for the stock unit that are more reliable.
Larry Kelly
'95 916
09-Aug-2004, 18:06 
skidlids
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