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Old 21-Aug-2004, 18:07   #1
DC DC is offline
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Rear wheel Nut.
Hello peeps,

I have a quick question for you lot,

The rear wheel nut on my 748 has been done up with an air gun. This was done the last time I had a set of tyres fitted. The thing is............I have the 46 and 41 mm sockets but I am buggered if a can shift the Nut. I have tried long poles on the End of the ratchet and having someone on the other end of the bike with the brakes applied etc. All to no avail.

I just wanted to know what the torque setting is for both the rear Nuts on the 748. So that once I have got the rear Nut lossened off a little I can re torque it myself. I am hopeing that I will then be able to shift the bloody Nuts myself with my own Sockets and torque rench!!!!

Yes I know I am heading into a dodgey area with all this talk of Nuts.:P

DC
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Old 21-Aug-2004, 18:20   #2
NBs996 NBs996 is offline
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The 46mm nut is 176Nm
Sprocket coupling nut is 156Nm

They shouldn't be done up too tight.
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Old 21-Aug-2004, 20:36   #3
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Cheers mate.

DC
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Old 21-Aug-2004, 21:59   #4
neil748r neil748r is offline
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Don't use your torque wrench for undoing the nuts!!!

They're not really designed for that purpose and you end up throwing them out of calibration.

Try using an impact wrench to loosen them off if the long bar technique isn't working. (I've seen a couple where it's literally taken a 6 foot length of scaffold to get them moving.)

The trick is, use molybdenum disulphide grease on reassembly. Light smear on the threads and on the back face of the nuts, won't be any problem to undo them again in the future.
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Old 21-Aug-2004, 22:48   #5
rcgbob44 rcgbob44 is offline
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When i took my nots off (ouch!) for the first time I had an unbelievable amount of heaving and grunting to remove the rear wheel ones, once done I replaced them with TI items and gave the tapered face and threads a smear of Copperslip, no problems since.

Good luck
By the way I had to use a six foote pole to hat them off...............and no pole jokes thanks chaps..
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Old 22-Aug-2004, 12:28   #6
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Cheers chaps,

Like I said. The Nuts were done up with an air gun. Once I get them off I will be fine. I have that grease so no probs with applying before I do them up again.

I think I will be fine with my torque rench when tightening up. I think im going to have to get my 6 foot scaffold pole out!!!!!! Either that or pay another visit to the tyre shop and get him to just loosen off the nut a smidgeon.

Anyhow, thanks chaps,

DC.
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Old 22-Aug-2004, 12:32   #7
Rattler Rattler is offline
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I had to use a 2 foot torque wrench and a 3ft length of scaffold pole to get my rear wheel nut off recently. I had to lock the rear wheel into the paddock stand using a chunk of wood and I actually bent the paddock stand!!! I had to launch it after that as it was totally useless.

In fact I was quite lucky, as my attempts to get the nut off with the pole could have led to the bike falling off the standing and causing all sorts of damage.

So proceed with caution and get some help too!!

Tim
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Old 22-Aug-2004, 12:51   #8
Lee1980 Lee1980 is offline
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I removed mine a while ago to clean the back end good and found it came off easy using a torque wrench and my brother sat on it

When I had a puncture the tyre fitter used the same type of torque wrench to do it up to an air gun seems a bit ott.

I also put a zip tie on the ends of the circlip as it had one on before. I did not grease the threads of the nut as I thought this gives a false torque reading as the grease means you can torque it up more?
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Old 22-Aug-2004, 17:21   #9
revdecal revdecal is offline
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had the same problem with my 748R and found an impact wrench from Halfords which runs from lighter or battery for £14.99.

Problem solved and took minutes!!

[Edited on 22-8-2004 by revdecal]
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