Quote:
Originally posted by moto748
Not only gel batteries, I'd say. I reckon the best battery charger is "no battery charger". Just ride the thing a decent distance regularly, and I reckon the battery'll be fine. I've got an Optimate, but I seldom use it. I've had batteries fail on me (gel type and conventional) but there's always been an external cause; either mal-functioning rect/regulator, or alarm woes 
Not doubting you, KeefyB, but what I read on the other thread about scully's bike: 12.7V seems quite a high reading for a faulty battery. If my battery read 12.7 V <disappears off to check battery>...
Hmm, 12.9V. But then I just rode 25 miles a few hours ago. But point is, I'd normally say 12.7V was quite healthy. Obviously didn't guarantee the battery was up to the job in this case, though.
[Edited on 13-2-2005 by moto748] |
Hmm yeah,but having over 12V across the terminals is not always a sign of a good battery.Watch the voltage drop as you press the starter button.In the old days of lead-acids you'd wip out your hydrometer and test the specific gravity to see if the battery was healthy.
I still reckon Scullys battery is cream crackered.It will prime the injectors and energise the solenoid but it aint got enough oomph to turn the motor and light the fires.
Just to test the starter motor I connected it directly to the battery.With the ignition off the motor would turn.Connect everything back up and,.....click.......nothing.
Didnt I read somewhere that you ideally need 13.5V to power the injectors/ignition and starter motor?
13-Feb-2005, 21:18 
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