| Good. You don't want to eat that lovely basket up bu smashing away at it with steel plates.
If you strip the clutch right out as per the manual instructions.
1 Pull out the top hat spacer and slide it off the crank.
2 Remove the rubber "O" ring from inside the top hat spacer and put it in the new spacer.
3 Apply a smear of crease to the new spacer and slide it gentley on to the crank and push it fully home.
4 Slide the dished washer, dome face towards you onto the crank and push it against the spacer.
5 Fit the new basket,
6 Take the outer hub and smear a bit of high temperature grease onto each ramp. Then put one of the ball bearings onto each ramp. The grease will hold them in place. Place the center hub over the top so that the pins lin up with the holes and slide it into place.
7 Push the whole assembly on to the crank and push it home.
8 Place the spider spring over the crank allowing the arms to rest in the machined out places for them. You shoud have a stepped washer. Place this over the crank up against the spider spring. The stepped side should fit the spider spring like a glove. Fit the center nut and tighten it up. You will need a clutch holding tool for this.
Start first with a friction plate, ( not has the manual )
Then a steel pressure plate
Friction plate
convex pressure plate with dot towards you.
Friction
Pressure, so on and so on.
The final convex plate should be placed one from last with the dot
facing away from you.
Now the final friction plate
and now the final pressure plate. Never finish with a friction plate.
You should now measure the distance from the face of the last pressure plate to the face of the center hub. It should read between 3.5 and 4.5 mm.
Any diverence should be taken upby swopping the pressure plates over for thiner / thicker ones.
Its just a question now of placing the final pressure plate and fitting the springs and washers, etc.
Hope this helps.
[Edited on 20-2-2005 by Jon]  | 
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