Ducati Sporting Club UK > Model Specific - Discussion, Technical Problems and Help > 999 / 749 > Suspension setup - 749S

[HW]

I thought I would take a look at how my suspension was set up today, and got a shock (pun not intended). I've never altered it from how the dealer set it up, but then they did not know how heavy I was so I really have no idea how it was set up. Always thought it felt OK though, but who knows if it could be better?

Started with the front sag. It's a bit high at 43mm, section8 says 35mm for 749 and the guide from MCN I was using said 30 to 35mm. Need to get a 32mm spanner now so I can try to adjust that.

The rear is why I am writing this now. MCN general guide says 20 to 22mm and section8 says 30mm. Mine is about 50mm! section8 suggests that Showa rear shocks are likely to be OK for 150-175lb riders, but I am 208lb. Either I need to get a stronger spring sorted ... I assume there is a knack to being able to get to the preload adjuster? .. Or I need to lose some weight. Lots of it.

Any useful advice guys and gals? Besides "eat fewer pies, you porker".

[HW]

Originally posted by Dseered
I was having a chat with Gizmo a couple of weeks ago, really knows his stuff I think, worth dropping him a U2U !

Ta, I will do that in a bit. Just reading all the section8 stuff about suspension geometry for 749.

This all came about because we took the 749 and the M620Sie out today with my teenage kids on pillion. Going to bring "rent a mob" to the DD at Cadwell ... be a nice family day out, but really want to do it on bikes! Didn't do too bad on the 749 with a 185lb pillion and a half turn extra on compression damping.

Couldn't go very fast anyway coz we were riding with my lad on his 50cc supermoto! zzzzzzzzzz
Damn good job it's not restricted or it'd be a 30mph job!

Actually .... just reading some of this stuff on section8 and I recon I might have got "flex in the rear subframe" that they describe. I lifted the rear by holding under the seat whereas they say to use the footpegs or the front of the subframe and use 2 people. Try again tomorrow me thinks.



[Edited on 16-4-2005 by HW]

[HW]

Originally posted by Dseered
Not sure of my weight, however it rides so much better 2 up ! (749 bip)

You're kidding ... right? Just checking ....

[HW]

I used to be 12 stone.



Your weight woudl be right smack bang in the middle of the range the stock springs are supposed to be suitable for.

SOunds like your setup is quite firm, I am in serious danger of losing the reg plate on the wheel (I have the plate tidy thingy). Yes I have seen the other thread about that, my bracket has bent and been bent back serveral times.

Take it to Maxton. They did Steve Wynnes 'Battle of the Twins' Rutter's 600 and Mike Hailwoods '78 TT winner. They'll revalve the forks and build you a real shock all for less than a grand. They will set the bike up for your weight and for your type of roads. Richard on 01928 740531 is the man. I was going to take my 749 there until I decided to order a 999S. Probably will take that there anyway... Despite it having all Ohlins

All hail Carlos Checa for knocking Rossi off the front for the Portugese! When is the V4 going to to hit the streets?

[KeefyB]

Originally posted by HW
The rear is why I am writing this now. MCN general guide says 20 to 22mm and section8 says 30mm. Mine is about 50mm! section8 suggests that Showa rear shocks are likely to be OK for 150-175lb riders, but I am 208lb. Either I need to get a stronger spring sorted ... I assume there is a knack to being able to get to the preload adjuster?

Mate,first up its a 22mm spanner to adjust the front preload.
The next thing is those section 8 settings,...they are for the monoposto.Your bip spring should be fine.(Once you have sorted the sag! )Also the "subframe flex" reffered to,is the alloy mono frame.
My 999 started out in life as a bip and after a bit of carefull setup it could handle all the B660 and rollercoaster with ease!Absolutely nothing wrong with the Showa.
I cant remember the settings exactly,but the damping was virtually standard.
Attacking the rear preload adjuster lockrings is a beeatch.Be prepared for skinned knuckles!
I used a selection of 'C' spanners to adjust mine.A smaller one to get in one side of the frame and then another that does the other side.Of course there is the good old hammer and punch!
Best mod at the rear for me was a couple of turns on the height adjuster.
With a bit of trial and error you can find your own ideal setup.

[HW]

Originally posted by KeefyB

Mate,first up its a 22mm spanner to adjust the front preload.
The next thing is those section 8 settings,...they are for the monoposto.Your bip spring should be fine.(Once you have sorted the sag! )Also the "subframe flex" reffered to,is the alloy mono frame.
My 999 started out in life as a bip and after a bit of carefull setup it could handle all the B660 and rollercoaster with ease!Absolutely nothing wrong with the Showa.
I cant remember the settings exactly,but the damping was virtually standard.
Attacking the rear preload adjuster lockrings is a beeatch.Be prepared for skinned knuckles!
I used a selection of 'C' spanners to adjust mine.A smaller one to get in one side of the frame and then another that does the other side.Of course there is the good old hammer and punch!
Best mod at the rear for me was a couple of turns on the height adjuster.
With a bit of trial and error you can find your own ideal setup.

Hiya, 22mm? I have got confused (easily done!) over what adjusts waht on the forks. The screw at the top is obviosuly the rebound damping. Then there is a hex that is 22mm, I was adjusting that yesterday. It reduced the sag by about 3mm before not making more difference. Only thing is I did not take out any damping and the guide suggests doing that first. If that 22mm is the preload then the compression on the front is up underneath through the spindle?

[HW]

Originally posted by ledaig
Take it to Maxton. They did Steve Wynnes 'Battle of the Twins' Rutter's 600 and Mike Hailwoods '78 TT winner. They'll revalve the forks and build you a real shock all for less than a grand. They will set the bike up for your weight and for your type of roads. Richard on 01928 740531 is the man. I was going to take my 749 there until I decided to order a 999S. Probably will take that there anyway... Despite it having all Ohlins

All hail Carlos Checa for knocking Rossi off the front for the Portugese! When is the V4 going to to hit the streets?

Cheers, but work of that nature will have to wait until I have spare cash. I have always been pretty happy with it how it is to be honest, but now I am starting to be more perceptive and demanding it works harder, I felt I should at least know how it is set up.

[KeefyB]

Originally posted by HW
Hiya, 22mm? I have got confused (easily done!) over what adjusts waht on the forks. The screw at the top is obviosuly the rebound damping. Then there is a hex that is 22mm, I was adjusting that yesterday. It reduced the sag by about 3mm before not making more difference. Only thing is I did not take out any damping and the guide suggests doing that first. If that 22mm is the preload then the compression on the front is up underneath through the spindle?

Yup,22mm for the fork preload adjusters.You say it only reduced the sag by 3mm,are you sure?The rings on the outside are marked with 5mm measures.
Rebound screw is at the top of the forks and the compression at the bottom of the leg.Accessed via the hole in the spindle.
To make the front suspension work,first you have to make it move.Forget about setting sag on the front for the mo,what you need to do is measure how much travel is used while you are out riding.For this the need the old faithfull tie wrap around the fork slider.You will need to put all the settings back to standard.(Look in your handbook)
Fit a tie wrap around the fork slider and but it up to the seal.
GO FOR A RIDE!
Ride your normal pace on a route you know.
Ok,now the technical bit,
Now measure the length of unused fork travel.This is the bit from the cable tie to the bottom of the slider.Idealy you are looking for around 15mm of unused travel.Any more decrease the preload,any less,....well...you know!
You may have to go out riding two or three times to get the ideal setting.Dont forget to set both fork legs the same!
As I said before,with a bit of trial and error,you can find your own settings.
As for the damping settings,you will find the standard settings are not far out.The adjusters dont actually do much in the mid range settings.You will only notice the differance at the extreme ends of the adjustment,i.e fully soft and fully hard.(Ooo-er missus!)Anyone that can tell the differance between one or two clicks of a Showa is talking cobblers!
Hope this helps!

[HW]

Hi mate, sorry about the delay.

About the front preload ... 5 rings showing, that's 20 mm (stock setting) to the top of the adjuster. We started to wind it in one ring at a time, and the first couple made a 3mm change in the measurements with the fully extended versus the rider on bike setting. THen it stopped makeing any difference after that. Odd. I am wondering whether the damping might stop it settling properly, so I will wind out the damping adjusters and try again. That will have to be at the weekend now due to me going away for couple of days on business.

I reckon I am more clued up now on what I am looking for and trying to do. The tricky bit will be getting to the rear preload adjuster ... waht an arse that is! Fond memories of the Ohlins external preload adjuster on my ST4s. Ah well ....