take sub frame off it makes it easier to remove old can, get new can into position then replace sub frame so you can check it goes in right place, leave everything loose and tighten fgrom rear forward. if its a 57mm full system 2:1:2 make sure you have plenty of valium to hand
The can, no worries, maybe a length of wire to hook around the two springs holding the pipes in to the can, to release them? and..dont forget the gaskets that go between the pipes and the can!
Now the air filters. Be very carefull with the bolts that hold the air tubes to the air bow. Dont cross thread them!
well i wouldn't remove the sub frame but just undo the bottom two nuts and slacken of the top two then leaver it up, you can then access the cans. firstly though remove the seat then tank so you can put your trick filter in
A common problem is that a newly-installed exhaust pipe or slip-on doesn't fit properly which causes the bike to backfire on decelleration. Aftermarket pipes are not a precision fit and often they let in combustion air that, when mixed with unburned fuel, results in the fuel being burned in the muffler. To prevent this, use a high temperature silicon sealant at the joints to keep the air out.
I recommend Permatex Ultra-Copper high temp RTV silicone gasket maker #101BR for the aftermarket slip-on system joints. Good to 700?F intermittent. Available in auto parts stores.
I found the most awkward part was fitting the ecu unit, the first one i did on my brothers old bike had us fiddling for about an hour before we realised that the plugs that go into the ecu were on a cam and not just a push/pull fitting !
It is not that it is hard to fit just awkward to get into as the wiring and battery cables do not have much slack to enable them to be pullled out more.
20-May-2005, 23:58 
Shazaam!
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