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Still needs to be clean and of value to the club.
 
 
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  #11  
Old 24-May-2005, 00:11
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You can take the route Monstermob suggested or you can scrape off the major high points ( pips) and then unibound it all over twice. You can then get a plasterer in to bound coat it with bounding plaster and then scim it over with finish.
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Old 24-May-2005, 00:13
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Its stuck very well and its in a matt finish.
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Old 24-May-2005, 00:15
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You can take the route Monstermob suggested or you can scrape off the major high points ( pips) and then unibound it all over twice. You can then get a plasterer in to bound coat it with bounding plaster and then scim it over with finish.

thats the one
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  #14  
Old 24-May-2005, 00:16
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What ever you do don't!!!!!!!!! lay that floor before you get the ceiling done. Its not the moisture that wll be your problem, but f any plaster gets onto the unprotected oak. It will send it black. You will end up with lots of little black spots all over the floor.
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Old 24-May-2005, 00:19
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What ever you do don't!!!!!!!!! lay that floor before you get the ceiling done. Its not the moisture that wll be your problem, but f any plaster gets onto the unprotected oak. It will send it black. You will end up with lots of little black spots all over the floor.

so right
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  #16  
Old 24-May-2005, 00:20
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Old 24-May-2005, 00:26
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I have seen the spotty oak after sindrome meself you are spot on
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  #18  
Old 24-May-2005, 00:32
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I thought you where takng the piz

[Edited on 23-5-2005 by Jon]
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  #19  
Old 24-May-2005, 00:32
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Mood: is it cos i is a bricklayer
board over the artex with 3/8 plasterboard -just make sure you tack the nails into the ceiling joists not just the existing board -use galvanised plasterboard nails about 40mm long- then plaster with multifinish plaster cost around 3-400 quid for a 30msquare ceiliing around a fiver for a sheet of board -- youll need 11 sheets about four quid for a bag of plaster- youll need two or three -- a roll of scrim (for the joints) about a fiver for nails -- a stanley knife for cutting the board etc---- if you go the uni bond way then it will take longer to dry(more moisture to your boards) the boarding and plaster will be dry in a few hours-- dont forget to seal the plaster with a "mist " coat of emulsion before you paint it

oh and about a tenners worth of tea and coffee

[Edited on 23-5-2005 by monstermob 998]
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  #20  
Old 24-May-2005, 00:33
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Thanks I will keep the plaster well away from the oak! I would not have done it till I had it well and truly sealed (bonatech mega). Its only a couple of years ago that I layed 80 square metres of the stuff in my living room and passageway spent about 4 days sanding it to perfection only to go out to a neighbours barbecue and get horribly drunk and return home to admire my (unsealed) handiwork and spill a litre of red wine all over it! In my stupor I forgot to let my very large English Mastiff out for his toilet duties that night and he repaid me by finding his way through the barricade I had erected to keep him of the floor and took a very large wet dump bang in the middle of the floor.

I had to sand about another mm of the entire floor and can still remember the worst smell ever everytime the floor sander past over that particular section.
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