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Old 04-Dec-2005, 00:01   #9
monstermob 998 monstermob 998 is offline
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kev -my thoughts and ramblings - this is what i have found - the worst cases of carb icing occurs when the air is very humid and cold (when it is foggy) this is i believe is because it isnt the petrol that affects the carbs it is the cold air drawn thru the carbs that is the problem- when i ran an open airbox with k+n and stage two dyno jet, unless i was accellerating hard the bike was spitting and popping all the time--i replaced the open airbox with the standard cover and instantly made a difference also after a few miles i stopped lifted the tank and directed the trumpets on the airbox at about 45 degrees outwards so as to lose the direct "ram air" effect this improved things to the degree that i could tell the difference in the running of the engine- finally i replaced the k+n with the standard filter and what a difference that made hardly a miss and the engine picked up a lot smoother all this using the FST at 50:1-- so to cut a long story short i have reverted back to my stage1carbs and a std filter set up for the winter, the bike ran well today but it wasnt as cold as it has been recently-- i'm currently thinking of fitting the carb heaters(that have been sat on the shelf since last yr) to the stage two carbs just to see how much difference it makes- although i have found that the FST seems to be coping well and i can live with the problem as things are----thoughts that i have had, albeit pie in the sky and a bit wacky is to add an oil cooler to the top of the airbox to create some sort of warm air induction system- like they do on light aircraft to alleviate induction icing--also i have noticed that when the carbs are suffering from "icing" the float bowls are dripping with condensation i wondered if a couple of those wrist bands that tennis players use would help wrapped around the bowls????

dave
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