Ducati Sporting Club UK > Model Specific - Discussion, Technical Problems and Help > Classic > Sport Classic 1000 - Immobiliser problem

[mike916]

Originally Posted by KeefyB

Heard of a similar fault on a 999,....it was the transponder in the ignition switch.Its glued in the ignition key switch cover.It had fallen down the switch and occasionally would'nt recognise the key.

That one sounded a good idea Keefy. Checked but the transponder is still firmly attached where its meant to be.

The bike is booked for collection on Wednesday by the local dealer (Ducati Wolverhampton) who can't even look at it for three weeks due to the amount of work they have on! Then they've got to get the part...s etc.

It's a 3 year old Sportclassic with less than 1000 miles on the clock which I'd only bought privately with no warrenty a couple of days before it packed up. It's back to the old tried and trusted 916 I think - getting too bl**dy technical these new Ducatis. I was hoping to get the 1000 well run in before the TT but that's not looking likely now

[mike916]

Well for the record the bike in now all ok again and I'm in the process of trying to finish running it in before the TT.

The problem turned out to be a failed fuel pump relay. So if anyone gets that sort of thing have a look at your relays - I'd looked at all the fuses but that wasn't enough!

[skidlids]

Originally Posted by mike916

Well for the record the bike in now all ok again and I'm in the process of trying to finish running it in before the TT.

The problem turned out to be a failed fuel pump relay. So if anyone gets that sort of thing have a look at your relays - I'd looked at all the fuses but that wasn't enough!

Thanks for the update Mike, the info may come in handy for some one else

Good luck with the running in and have a good time at the TT

[skidlids]

Just found this link
http://www.avantiraceparts.co.uk/page.php?id=19

[Steve E]

Originally Posted by mike916

Well for the record the bike in now all ok again and I'm in the process of trying to finish running it in before the TT.

The problem turned out to be a failed fuel pump relay. So if anyone gets that sort of thing have a look at your relays - I'd looked at all the fuses but that wasn't enough!

Hi Mike,

I think I may have the same problem as you had back in 2009 with your Sport Classic. I'm planing to swap the fuel pump relay to see if that fixes my Sport 1000. The engine cuts out unexpectedly when riding but re-starts fine on the button. Now it won't start and I get a click noise and no turning over.

Can you tell me where the fuel pump relay is located? There appears to be one under the seat but I'm guessing thats it! I expect the location varies from model to model.

Steve

[antonye]

Location should be in the owners handbook - get one online if you don't have the printed copy that came with the bike!
http://ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do

[mike916]

Hi Steve,

The pump relay is immediately to the right of the regulator/rectifier when viewed from the back of the bike. It has gone again twice since I last posted about this and was informed by my dealer that there may heve been a batch of faulty relays sold. Not certain if this is correct or the usual dealer bull.

Since then I have flipped the reg/rec under the rear of the inner mudguard. I had a suspicion the relay may have been overheating from being to close to it. Since I have done this I have had no futher probs. Don't know if this is because I have got a good relay at last or it not longer gets cooked by the reg/rect heat.

Anyway I still always carry a spare relay in a zip bag cable tied next to the relay and it can't hurt to actually get a reg/rect where it can get some cooling from the passing breeze insted of the stupid original position fully enclosed under the seat.

If you want to flip the reg/rec it quite easy. Remove the relay mounting bolts and drill down the holes through the inner mudguard and tap the threads straight through. They are only brass inserts so the jobs easy. Loosen the seat base and the relay will thread through the gap at the front with a bit of a squeeze. Refit the reg/rect underneath with longer bolts with spacers to keep the reg/rec from touching the inner mudguard and thats that.

General point - As a matter of interest my dealer said DDS would not pick up this fault and no resets are needed for fuel pump relay failure.

Hope that helps.
Mike

[Steve E]

Thanks Mike and Antony,

I thought that might be it (nowt in my owners manual and the wiring diagram in the online parts manual didn't give me much idea). I've only just replaced the rectifier with Antony's help. I was thinking about getting one of those cooler running Mosfet rectifiers if it goes again but puting the existing one in a cooler location is a good idea, likewise carrying a spare. I saw some pics of a paul Smart with a melted plastic tray online - not good!

Fingers crossed its the relay and I'll be up and running again. Thanks for your help - much appreciated.

Steve

[antonye]

Yes, I also think moving the reg/rec will help it to keep cool and avoid a lot of related issues or repeat failure in the future.

The relays should be an easy fix. They do fail, as they are no more than a mechanical switch that wears out over time. Simply get a replacement and chuck the old one away - treat them as a service item! Carrying a spare is always a good idea as well.

[mike916]

Originally Posted by Steve E

Thanks Mike and Antony,

I thought that might be it (nowt in my owners manual and the wiring diagram in the online parts manual didn't give me much idea). I've only just replaced the rectifier with Antony's help. I was thinking about getting one of those cooler running Mosfet rectifiers if it goes again but puting the existing one in a cooler location is a good idea, likewise carrying a spare. I saw some pics of a paul Smart with a melted plastic tray online - not good!

Fingers crossed its the relay and I'll be up and running again. Thanks for your help - much appreciated.

Steve

I wouldn't bother changing the reg/rec unless the original fails. Much better, and cheaper, to get the stock one cooling properly by moving under the tray which will reduce the chance of it failing.